| Author |
 Topic  |
|
gmac
The Scottish Admin
United Kingdom
5319 Posts |
 Posted - 21/10/2010 : 22:13:10
|
| If you are going to use a ceramic bulb, you really wont need a heatmat. |
 |
 |
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 27/10/2010 : 14:39:37
|
ok my dad orderd me a 36" vivarium last night, not sure why that size but he did, so im trying to sort out everything, my dads boss brought me a new Alto Tubular Heater 24inch 120W since he owed me money anyway, so thats my heater, my thermostat and thermometers are sorted out and running now, the only trouble i have is if i have to go away for the weekend, well my family aren't very reliable and wont change the water, so has anyone tried one of these with a cornsnake as it will sort out all my trouble with changing the water when im away
http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/water_well.php
thanx for all the help you have all given me, hopefully it wont be long till its all up and running :) |
|
|
|
Sta~ple
qeeun speler
United Kingdom
6129 Posts |
Posted - 27/10/2010 : 20:14:01
|
quote:
Originally posted by bigJME
ok guys so ive just talked to my dad and uncle who has a couple of cornsnakes and also the support team from bluelizardreptiles who house cornsnakes, due to the cold temperature within my room i have been told to just go get a 24" wooden vivarium which is only 12cm larger then the faunarium and using that with one of the non light heaters (bulbs) and possibly a heat mat if desperate
No offence, sounds like bull to me and someone wanting more money. :/ even if you have a wooden viv and you get a baby snake, it will still need to live in a faun or RUB until it get's bigger otherwise it will escape from the wooden viv most likely/make it impossible for you to find him or stress him out unless your very craft like one person was on here and partitioned it.
And I *personally* wouldn't bother with the water fountain. By weekend I guess you mean 2 or three days? So long as the snake doesn't poo in it's water, it will be fine without a water change from the day you leave till you get back. Judging by the scale, when you snake is an adult, it could topple that water fall over. |
   
A very special super, duper thanks for K :3 |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 27/10/2010 : 21:09:39
|
yeh i know, my dad went and brought it anyway :/ cant really heat up a faun from 9 degrees C, from my guessing a 36" is plenty large enough for a 4' snake not to mention a 10" snake :/ im going to have to be very crafty, lots of wood and leaves i think, the heater is large and covers like 2/3rds of the vivarium which should give off plenty of heat, we have already had it up to 50 just sitting on my side so warming the air to 29 shouldn't be any issue, pain in the but when my dad is the one who is buying what he thinks is best, he hasn't had a snake in like 19 years and that was 2 royal pythons yet he knows how to look after a snake, hell he doesn't know how a heat mat works!
ooo well ive got to make the best of what i have :/ im not ignoring suggestions to anyone who may think that, stuff just gets ordered without me choosing so, im ordering a breeding box aswell so i think i will be putting the snake inside that, then that inside the viv, warm the viv up to temperature, then im just stuck with the issue of having no gradient in the box, ooo well looks like putting off the snake till i have everything set up
viv comes in 8 - 10 working days, my heater and thermostat is ready, just got to get a guard to go round the heater (probably stainless steel lol) and then i will try it, will send a pic to you guys when just thats up and running then another once ive braught some bits, im sure the pet shop im buying the snake off supply them in a RUB anyway so i may be able to get away with simply using that |
Edited by - bigJME on 27/10/2010 23:13:50 |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 00:58:33
|
ok my vivarium arrived today so ive set it up in my room, added in my sensors temporarily (they are held down with masking tape!) and my heater, here's some pictures of how it looks now with my heater in, its abit over kill so got a question to ask in a second
right now the temperature range of it is sitting at 27C on the heater side to 25C on the none heater side, i was wondering if instead of having a gradient i would say have a set temp all the way through for my snake? i can easily get the heater to warm the viv up to 40C so getting it to 29 wasn't a problem after all :) |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2010 : 00:00:12
|
| change of plan, i went a brought a 250W AHS heater, have set it up with the aspan in my viv and getting the temperature gradient of 29 - 23, its just easier, am going to order the rest of the equipment next week and my snake in 3 or 4 weeks |
|
|
|
lotabob
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
4334 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2010 : 00:31:42
|
Please take ALL tape ie masking tape out of the viv, its SO bad for snakes, they get stuck,stressed and then lose scales when you have to remove it from them. Find another way of securing your sensors but tape is a swear word in this forum.
You really will need to partition off part of that viv, its just too big for a hatchling, my snake is young and about 18-19 inches long and is in a 2 foot viv and really even that is too big for him. Also where the 2 pieces of glass meet you will need absolutely no gap at all, they can squeeze through the smallest of gaps and it will test every possible escape route over and over. If you have all this equipment and the viv etc it might be better to get a corn snake thats a bit bigger rather than have to make a load of alterations because your snake isn't happy and stressed.
Your enthusiasm for all this is inspiring but really you need to just take a step back, write a list of what you need for the size of snake you are getting and stick to it, a good faun, a heat mat, mat-stat, and 2 digital thermometers is all you really need for such a small snake. Then make preparations for when your snake is big enough for a 3 foot viv. or split the viv in half with a divide and then you can have 2 snakes. |
Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.
MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2010 : 13:41:33
|
the tape was in there just while i set up my stat which isnt used now as im using an AHS heater, im getting a viv door lock and i have something to put in the gaps of the doors so there is no gap atall
i did have a set up but the faun wouldn't have got up to temp ever in a 6C room, my dad is ordering everything for me as i cant, so he is just ordering what he thinks not what i say, there's no tape or anything anymore, just the heater, since it has a built in stat, im getting a constant 27C - 23C gradient now my heater has settled which from what i have read is fine, i may have to get a larger snake i know that, i am putting in 2 small hide outs at either side, a medium water bowl, lots of hiding spots, plant, to add that extra bit of hiding space |
|
|
|
lotabob
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
4334 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2010 : 18:52:22
|
| Even at 6 degrees a heat mat will still heat up to 27-30 degrees infact if ran without a stat it will heat up to anywhere between 35-45 degrees, heat mats dont heat the air, they provide a hot surface where the snake can go warm up on. A vivarium lock runs between the two piecees of glass and actually holds the gap further open, I have my lock at the top of the glass and then a wedge in the front of the rail at the bottom to push the gap competely closed, as you would need to block the gap from the inside to stop the snake pushing into the gap and getting stuck my solution is no space between the pieces of glass. A good tip I was given on here as a substitute for tape is aquarium sealant. |
Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.
MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2010 : 20:39:51
|
| yeh i know that, but with one third of the viv or faun at warm and the rest at 6C its abit silly, if you get what i mean? i dont think it would ever go on the cold side so i would need 3 mats or a very large mat to heat it |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 23:30:46
|
| getting my snake wednesday, ordered all my equipment yesterday, heater is already running and keeping temp, via has been cleaned, getting food on monday, should all hopefully be ok |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 18:08:23
|
Tank is now done and set up, all cleaned and read for my snake Wednesday, got 10 pinkies this morning, added my lock on, and the gap between the glass is about 3mm so hopefully that should be ok
 |
|
|
|
Mort13
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
5599 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 18:36:58
|
How bigs the snake you're getting?
The reason I ask is that I have a similar size gap between the glass on my viv and I blocked it using a strip of adhesive felt. If your snakes only tiny theres a real possibility it could get through.
I did the same with the partition in my viv too as there was a gap of about 3mm between it and the glass and I'm glad I did as Falcor is always nudging round there. He was 3 and a half months when I got him and I'm POSITIVE he could have squeezed through if it wasn't there!
Hope all goes well with the new arrival |
      
3.1.0 Corn snakes, 1.0.0 T-Albino Cape House Snake, 0.1.0 Western Hognose,
1.0.0 MBK, 0.1.0 Childrens Python, 1.0.0 Nicaraguan Dwarf Boas
0.0.1 Occelated Skink, 1.0.0 Leopard Gecko, 1.0.3 Tarantulas, 0.0.2 Damon diadema
1.0.0 C0ckatiel,
|
|
|
|
n/a
deleted
27 Posts |
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 20:01:23
|
| ive got some of the rubber they use in the shower units to give a water tight seal between the doors that just pushed onto the pains of glass, wonder if that might work? |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 21:35:32
|
| ive put the rubber in and its now totally ceiled, there is no gap in between the pains of glass and the rubber stays on around the lock, the vents at the back of the viv do seem pretty big to me but it wont be able to reach it for a good while, all im waiting n now is for Wednesday when i go fetch the snake and introduce it to its new home, ive got to get i think a dull light for viewing since it is hard to see inside when the light is turned off |
|
|
|
Sta~ple
qeeun speler
United Kingdom
6129 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 22:10:01
|
I've used cardboard to seal in the gaps through the doors as I have no doubt that my little babies of 8 months could fit through a 3mm. With I had thought about the rubber shower unit thing though.
I'm interested to know how that heater works. I hope it isn't an electricity muncher!
Only 2 more sleeps until snakie :o |
A very special super, duper thanks for K :3 |
|
|
|
bigJME
Hatchling
125 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 22:53:23
|
its an AHS electric heater, it has a built in microclimate kit, houses a ceramic heating source and adjusted the amount of power going to the heater, its a 250W heater which is designed to heat a 4ft viv, larger then i have but for a reason, when the temperature drops its able to boost the heat to keep it steady all the time
250W may seem like an energy muncher but if you monitor how frequent the light on the front flashes (showing when the heater flicks on) it is only on for one 5th of an hour which really is cheap to run and always keeps my temp correct :) its set to 22C on the controlled area (where the sensor is) and then directly outside the heater is a constant 27C except night when it can get to 29C because of the room being cold, the cold side is a constant 22C
i will post another picture with the shower things on, i just cut it down quickly and pushed it on
p.s. the heaters are normally about £80 each for the 150W and 250W if anyone wanted to know and sorry about the poor quality pictures, im taking them on my phone |
Edited by - bigJME on 15/11/2010 22:54:37 |
|
|
|
lotabob
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
4334 Posts |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 23:30:33
|
| I still don't get how a space heater can create a hot/cold gradient, not saying it isn't doing that just for instance my central heating is on at the moment and its heating up the room, the whole room is pretty much the same temperature and the only real hot spot is if I go sit on the radiator. How does it work, surely its not a contact heater and heat rises, surely most the heat goes straight up, somewhere the snake isn't. I don't see any thermometer probes in the pictures so out of curiosity where are they and with the thermometers on the substrate surface 1 at the hot end, 1 at the cold what are your readings without touching the heater or casing? |
Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.
MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
|
|
Setting up my first vivarium
