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AngelX
Hatchling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
 Posted - 11/07/2010 : 09:25:49
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Okk, this might sound a bit stupid but I have never bred corn snakes before so I want to make sure I do everything perfect when I do breed my two.
Okk,
How long do you keep the male and female together?
Who's viv do you put the other one into? The male in female's viv or vice versa
What do you need for the female when she is pregnant to ensure she is comfortable when giving birth etc?
If the girl is giving birth in batches sort of thing, do I wait until she has given birth to all of hem before I move the eggs into the incubator? Or take them out as soon as I see them?
What is best for the incubator? Spagnum moss or anything else?
Sorry there are lots of questions but I'm a newbie to everything, any answers to the questions will be appreciated!!  |
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mikerichards
don't say the 'M' word!
United Kingdom
2901 Posts |
Posted - 11/07/2010 : 12:05:59
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Well, breeding naturally occurs in the period of time almost immeadiately after hibernation, so the best thing is to keep the pair separate all year, hibernate them for anywhere between 4 weeks to 5 months, i do mine from october to feb, dropping the temps gradually over a few weeks.
Always make sure that the last feed has passed properly before dropping the temps, thats important as food doesnt get digested when in hibernation, so rots in the stomach. Once they are down, temps down to about 18 degrees c, just leave them, dont get them out, dont feed, do move, just nothing, except change water, dont be tempted to handle at all. In the beginning of feb, i raise the temps by a couple of degrees the first week, then leave a week, and a bit more, till by the end of feb, mid march the temps are back to normal. At that point i will feed them, not much, but a good size.
Then a week later feed again, bigger, or what they usually take.
get at least 3 or 4 feeds into the female before mating, it ensures that she actually has food before being gravid.
I introduce the female to the male, put her in his territory, i have had better reactions from the male doing that.
Actual mating can happen in as little as 30 seconds (my hypo Bloodred and Great Plains) or it can take 30 minutes, the thing is patience.
You will see when its likely to happen as the male will slide up the females back, and they will both be twitching like mad, almost jumping, thats a good sign. They are not shy so you may see the lock, or you may not, but dont get too in their faces, dont want him getting stage fright!
once the male separates from her, remove her. Give it a day or so, then put her back with the male, keep doing this for a while, maybe 2 weeks, this just ensures that there will be good fertilisation, and if she a big girl, and hes only little, then she may have more eggs than he can properly fertilise in one shot.
You have roughly 6 weeks from ovulation to her laying, so be ready for her to lay in that time frame, she will go off her food in about 3 weeks, so its really imperative that she is fed as much as she will eat, within reason, so she gets the calcium and nutrients to build the eggs, and stay healthy. Dusting her food with a little calcium dust wont do her any harm, but not too much, a pinch will suffice.
She will shed roughly 7 - 10 days before laying, it has been known to be longer, and also shorter, but thats a good reference time frame.
Have a lay box ready for this time, and once she sheds give it to her, i put vermiculite in mine, but Moss is just as effective.
Once she lays, usually she will drop the lot in one hit, but it can take upto 24 hours, if it goes well, it depends on the number of eggs.
Dont take the eggs until she is done, or you may put her off and she may retain, which is bad.
The incubator, have a look at a few threads, i have done may write ups on incubators, and will be just as long as this whole post, so i wont add it here. Needless to say, have the incubator setup and running when you know shes been locked with the male, it can take a while to get the temps to sit right in there.
Once she has laid, she is gonna be knackered, she wont want to eat i wouldnt imagine, none of mine did. They will look exhausted, so just leave her be, she will rest a lot, and start moving about after a while, make sure she has fresh water and a nice clean viv for the whole process.
Whilst i say you have to hibernate, technically you dont have to, however, hibernation sets the body up for breeding season, so without hibernating you still get a clutch of eggs, but likely not so many, between 5 and 10, whereas the same snake may lay between 20 and 30 with a good season of hiberantion, so its worth doing.
Incubator medium wise, this year is tried perlite, which was quite nice to use actually, so you can use that, or Moss, or vermiculite is an age tested means also. |
Location : Worthing, West Sussex
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Edited by - mikerichards on 11/07/2010 12:07:26 |
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AngelX
Hatchling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 11/07/2010 : 16:56:05
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Thank you so much Mikerichards! You have answered all my questions and more! LoL  You have been a big help that is for sure! |
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mikerichards
don't say the 'M' word!
United Kingdom
2901 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2010 : 08:03:20
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One thing I forgot, when hibernating, check periodically that neither the male or the female are losing loads of weight, if they are, warm them up and get them feeding, they will still breed as long as the weights back.
Mike |
Location : Worthing, West Sussex
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AngelX
Hatchling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2010 : 16:23:10
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| Ohh okayy, I might skip hibernation all together as I don't know how well they sell in my area, I live in a remote ish part of Suffolk and both my snakes I had to travel to Essex to get them, so if she does give birth to 20 odd I might not be able to shift them all, and although I would be very tempted to keep them, I don't have enough room!! Thanks though!! x |
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eeji
The Morph Master
United Kingdom
4335 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2010 : 18:30:43
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| i don't brumate any of mine and regularly get 20 eggs from my girlies :) When putting them together, I use neutral territory and put them in a small-ish box (one that is too small for one adult to live in) with nothing in - no substrate, no water, no hides. I will leave them until the deed is done, and if they don't couple then remove them after half an hour-ish and try again the week after. |
Forum - Guide to Cornsnake Morphs - Punnett Square Calculator - Breeder Directory
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AngelX
Hatchling
United Kingdom
252 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2010 : 19:20:44
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| Thanks eeji, will find a box nearer the time. x |
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The whole cycle?
