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5 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  01:06:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I bought my cornsnake on September 27th. He looks healthy, moves around, no cloudy eyes. The problem is that he isn't eating. I don't know if he ate at the pet store...He had arrived on the 25th, and they didn't say whether he was fed or not.

He's about 12 inches long, and his head is around the size of a dime maybe. He's a small snake, so I'm not sure if I'm going about this right.

I got baby pinkies, frozen. I put them in hot water until they thawed and I've tried feeding him but he moves away as if he's afraid. I've tried crickets (dead, I heat them up cuz they're in the fridge) but he acts the same way.

Should I try live crickets? I don't know what to do.

He lives in a 10g tank with a headpad on one side, newspaper on the bottom, some aspen on top. He has 3 hiding places, and a water dish. I have a light that I turn on during the day, and his temps are usually 28-30 on the warm end and 24-27 on the cool end. I've been trying more humidity by spraying a mist in his encloser every few days, and he appears to like that...

Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Any help is appreciated.

Kellog
the nice one

United Kingdom
7308 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  05:03:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Firstly check this out in the Corn Snake General Posts - it is a topic dedicated to non-feeding snakes. www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3720

Have never heard of feeding crickets to corn snakes!!
Corn snakes do not need humidity unless they are going into a shed...too much humidity can lead to respiratory problems.

Did you follow the one week no handling/feeding rule after you got him so he could get over the stress of the move and settle in?
Is he drinking and pooing?
Has he shed with you yet?
When you handle him is he handling ok?
Have you spoken to the shop you got him from to get more info - when he last fed, shed, pooed?

Need as much info as possible so that 'Those who know' can give you the best advice and support.

xxx



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5 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  07:36:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The pet store doesn't know anything (I worked for them, they don't get told any information on the in coming animals, and the people who WERE working a month ago all quit, including myself).

I was told to feed him crickets, I thought it was a bad idea but I was desperate to try, and it's obvious he doesn't want them...

I handled him maybe 3 times the first week, and then once a week later, and now I handled him today after two weeks of not handling him. When I do handle him he seems fine, he's lively and wants to get away, but will sit still sometimes.

I haven't see him poo...but I did have shavings in there (again, I read and was told it was good to have aspen shavings). Now I have paper towel down so if he does poo I'll know. I also give him fresh water every day in his dish. He hasn't shed while in my care...

Again, I wish I knew more, and I shouldn't have bought from the store (I knew better, they're HORRIBLE there, which is why I quit) but I didn't want to pass up buying the little guy. I researched a lot, but I guess everything I read may have been wrong?
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gingerpony
Queen Bee

United Kingdom
10455 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  09:00:11  Show Profile  Click to see gingerpony's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
crickets are of absolutely no use i'm afraid

how big is a 10gallon tank (dimensions)? a pic would be very helpful
and are you defrosting the pinkies directly in the water ie. are they wet?
what are your temps like? how is the enclosure heated and the heat controlled?
are you handling him and if so how frequently?

cornsnakes, ratsnakes, bullsnakes, boas and day geckos

Location:Leeds/York/Selby area
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HannahB
The Corn Snake Moderator

United Kingdom
5491 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  09:14:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
instead of putting the pinkies directly in hot water you can leave them out in a bag on a window sill during the day to let them defrost that way. they only take a few hours, another thing you can try is braining where you make a hole in the top of the pinkies head and squeeze it slightly so the brain matter leaks, or try blasting it with a hairdryer focusing on the head so it gets nice and warm

hey and welcome to the forum by the way


2.0 Normal Royal Pythons - Q and Little One
1.0 Chihauhaun Mountain Kingsnake - Simba




Edited by - HannahB on 28/10/2009 09:17:39
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SexyBear77
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3796 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  10:34:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Loch

The pet store doesn't know anything (I worked for them, they don't get told any information on the in coming animals, and the people who WERE working a month ago all quit, including myself).

I was told to feed him crickets, I thought it was a bad idea but I was desperate to try, and it's obvious he doesn't want them...

I handled him maybe 3 times the first week, and then once a week later, and now I handled him today after two weeks of not handling him. When I do handle him he seems fine, he's lively and wants to get away, but will sit still sometimes.

I haven't see him poo...but I did have shavings in there (again, I read and was told it was good to have aspen shavings). Now I have paper towel down so if he does poo I'll know. I also give him fresh water every day in his dish. He hasn't shed while in my care...

Again, I wish I knew more, and I shouldn't have bought from the store (I knew better, they're HORRIBLE there, which is why I quit) but I didn't want to pass up buying the little guy. I researched a lot, but I guess everything I read may have been wrong?



Its good that you tried to do your research, but you have got it a little wrong!

Corns dont eat any sort of insect- mice first and foremost, sometimes rats and occasionally day old chicks.

How are you monitoring temps and how is the faun heated?
corns prefer belly heat and most of us use heatmats which go either under the faun or tank, or inside a wooden viv. They need to be regulated with a habistat and monitored with digital thermometers (ideally) one at each end. You said you have a mat at one side? is it on the wall?

The woodshavings? are they actual shavings like what you would put a mouse on, or the reptile stuff which is coarser and more "shredded"?

As already mentioned above, corns dont need humidity unless the shed badly. Enclosures that are too warm and damp can lead to blister disease.

9.11 Cornsnakes
1.1 Hogg island boas
1.0 Dwarf Burmese python

Location: Watford
Website- http://rassnakes.yolasite.com/

Edited by - Kehhlyr on 28/10/2009 13:42:13
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893 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  12:20:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

In addition to everything that's already been mentioned: at 27c, cool side temp is too high.

I'd leave him for a full week now to settle in with no interruption whatsoever, only going in to change his water.

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5 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  18:38:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A ten gallon tank is roughly 24 1/4 x12 1/2 x12 3/4. The wood shavings were small animal shavings (and yes I was told to use that, I've changed it, now its just paper towel).

The heat pad is on the bottom of the tank on the left side, and I have two thermometers, one on each end. The temperatures do tend to fluctuate, as I live in an apartment and the heating isn't always ideal. Sometimes the cold end dips down to around 22, highest is 30. I adjust the temperature in the apartment in an attempt to keep it regular, but it's usually between that range.

I've tried gutting the pinki before and he still wouldn't go near it. I've even tried just leaving it in his tank like that, and nothing. I've gone two weeks without touching him and he wouldn't eat.

I think the pinki is a little damp when I go to feed him, perhaps I'll try the other tips in here and see how it goes.
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eeji
The Morph Master

United Kingdom
4335 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  21:11:49  Show Profile  Visit eeji's Homepage  Reply with Quote
you need to leave him alone with no handling whatsoever, and as little disturbance as possible while he's not eating for you to minimise any unnecessary stresses which may be a factor in the problem.

try boiling a pinky for 3 minutes and offer it while its still warm (let it cool a bit first though! ) i've had success with this method.


Forum - Guide to Cornsnake Morphs - Punnett Square Calculator - Breeder Directory
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HannahB
The Corn Snake Moderator

United Kingdom
5491 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  21:16:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
another thing to try is when it is frozen chop the pinkie up into quarters.. my non feeder was assist fed a mouse tail and now will eat a quarter of a pinkie (albeit with a bit of help).. this sounds really silly but does your snake have a super tiny neck? my non feeder had the smallest neck ive ever seen and i think it was a case of us offering a meal that was too big for her to handle


2.0 Normal Royal Pythons - Q and Little One
1.0 Chihauhaun Mountain Kingsnake - Simba



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5 Posts

Posted - 28/10/2009 :  21:55:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think he may be too small, as he does seem to have a smaller neck. I may try the boiling/cutting. So should I leave him alone for 2 weeks and then try to feed him?

When I leave him alone for 2 weeks should I maybe cover the tank with a towel so its dark and quiet for him, or continue to turn on his light during the day and turn it off at night?

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Kellog
the nice one

United Kingdom
7308 Posts

Posted - 29/10/2009 :  05:30:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have you weighed him? Might be worthwhile doing that before you do the non-handling bit, cos that way you can keep track of whether he is losing weight or not.

When you do try to feed him do you keep to feeding schedule or try everyday as he isnt eating??

xxx


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5 Posts

Posted - 29/10/2009 :  05:40:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've been trying every night.

I don't have a scale to weigh him.

I'm holding off on feeding him until I know whether I should leave him alone for a period of time before attempting to feed him again.
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Kellog
the nice one

United Kingdom
7308 Posts

Posted - 29/10/2009 :  05:49:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Definitely mustnt try every night as will stress him. Go out tomorrow and get some scales, it is important to monitor his weight. When you do try feeding him you need to keep to a feeding schedule, whether he eats or not....whatever is appropriate for his age/size. I am sure 'Those who know' can give you a better idea of what to do from now on. xxx


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HannahB
The Corn Snake Moderator

United Kingdom
5491 Posts

Posted - 29/10/2009 :  11:00:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
if hes a hatchling and on pinkies then id aim for trying every 4/5 days, while hes not feeding though if you can get hold of some reptoboost or similar id start putting that in his water so hes at least getting some nutrition in him


2.0 Normal Royal Pythons - Q and Little One
1.0 Chihauhaun Mountain Kingsnake - Simba



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