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 Advantages of tub feeding?
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snowstripe420
Egg

Canada
81 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  18:21:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Im a little curious. Most people on here see to feed in a separate container for a few reasons. I am more than willing to do this. How long should you leave him in the container after feeding before putting him back in his home? Wouldnt this be stressful on the snake to be transfered back and forth. i would think he would be happier to eat, hang out without any bother, and sit on his heat pad to digest. Thoughts?


SexyBear77
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3796 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  18:38:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I feed all 19 of mine in their vivs or RUB's. I have yet to encounter a single issue related to feeding inside the viv. There is a tiny risk that the snake can ingest substrate, and that this may cause problems internally, but this can be avoided by feeding off of a dish or sheet or paper.

Of course, many people also feed outside the viv/RUB but this is mainly from a misguided fear that this will cause the snake to bite when your hand enters the viv. This is nonsense. If you do choose to feed outside of the viv, leave your snake a good 20 mins minimum after swallowing and then lift it gently back into its house, avoiding the bump from the food.

9.11 Cornsnakes
1.1 Hogg island boas
1.0 Dwarf Burmese python

Location: Watford
Website- http://rassnakes.yolasite.com/
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lotabob
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
4334 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  19:57:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I do both, I tub feed the ones that will tub feed and the one that won't I feed in the viv. I feed in tubs for three reasons, I like to watch them eat, I like to weigh them weekly before they eat and I don't want them accidentally eating substrate. My Royal will only eat in his viv and he has also eaten substrate and it did him no harm but I take precautions to avoid it.

Once the bump hits the stomach I just tilt the tub and let them leave of their own accord.

Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.

MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky

Edited by - lotabob on 01/04/2011 20:01:37
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Sta~ple
qeeun speler

United Kingdom
6129 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  20:24:21  Show Profile  Click to see Sta~ple's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I dare not feed mine in a viv even with the whole viv being covered by paper or news paper as they muck about with their food so much they would find some way to roll it in aspen...

Advantages are you can see them eat, well easier than vivs anyway and while in the tub, you can clean/spot clean do any water changes and stuff without being bothered or worrying your disturbing snakie.



A very special super, duper thanks for K :3
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herriotfan
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
5853 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  20:34:16  Show Profile  Click to see herriotfan's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I feed each snake in a seperate rub. Means I know they don't take any substrate in with their meal, I can watch them feed and there's no risk of them becoming viv defensive.
Once the meal has gone down past the top end I gently lift them back to their vivs. Then leave alone for 48 hours to digest. Works a treat for us, you will suss out what works for you......


Husband....Very Understanding!!! (Phil)
Son & Daughter (Kevin & Carol)
Granddaughter (Eva)
3.4.0 Cornsnakes Amel (Sidney) Caramel Stripe (Sultan) Amber (Cleo) Carolina (Phoebe) Anery Motley Stripe (Penny) Snow (Lily) Caramel (Holmes)
1.2.0 Royal Pythons(Peeps, Pandora & Pepsi)
1.0.0 Hognose (Hudson)
2.1.0 Dogs (Dillon, Alfie, Ellie)
0.1.0 Senegal Parrot (Peanut)
1.1.0 Bearded Dragons (Bonnie & Clyde)
1.0.0 Crested Geckos (Echo)
0.2.1 Hermanns Tortoises (Ebbie, Rosie & Twiglet)
0.1.0 Guinea Pig (Dolly-Pipsqueak)
0.1.9 Tarantulas (Poppy, Gypsy, Bumble, Insey Winsey, Sonic, Cookie, Raven, Fudge, Titch & Sox)
??? Foster animals
Location: Near Saffron Walden, Essex
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SexyBear77
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3796 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  20:57:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Personally, if mine ingest a small amount of substrate, then thats what happens. Working off a hunch I'm assuming snakes in a wild situation would eat alot worse than a flake or 2 of aspen..... but hey, I don't stick to the "1.5 times the width of the snake" rule for feeing either....

So, for me, feeding in tub is much more hassle than feeding in a viv.

9.11 Cornsnakes
1.1 Hogg island boas
1.0 Dwarf Burmese python

Location: Watford
Website- http://rassnakes.yolasite.com/
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Invalid User
Account Deactivated

United Kingdom
0 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:10:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I feed all mine now in the rubs they live in. It's much easier now I have so many plus I use kitchen roll as a substrate so no worries there.
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SexyBear77
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3796 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:13:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Louise32

I feed all mine now in the rubs they live in. It's much easier now I have so many plus I use kitchen roll as a substrate so no worries there.



Tell me about it!! If I fed all mine in tubs I'd be at it all flippin' day!!

9.11 Cornsnakes
1.1 Hogg island boas
1.0 Dwarf Burmese python

Location: Watford
Website- http://rassnakes.yolasite.com/
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snowstripe420
Egg

Canada
81 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:14:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for all the Great Reply's :) I think im good to go. Most of this will be hands on, and trial and error experience. The only thing now bothering me is I Cant find a Thermostat anywhere! The temp on the glass above the heat matt is 98 degrees :( Ontop of the substrate it is a nice 86 :p I called the store were i bought the snake and the mat, and the lady insists the snake will not burn itself. The thing is she is always explainging stuff i already understand and never answers my questions. i feel that I am more qualified to run the pet store than they are (arrogance lol). The snake hasnt done any burrowing yet, but im sure its because its in the process of shedding.


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SexyBear77
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3796 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:18:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Turn the mat off and don't feed the snake until the stat is set up and temps are stable. Your snake could burn itself.

9.11 Cornsnakes
1.1 Hogg island boas
1.0 Dwarf Burmese python

Location: Watford
Website- http://rassnakes.yolasite.com/
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kdlang
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3556 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:51:50  Show Profile  Click to see kdlang's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Your snake could bury under the substrate and burn itself on the glass. That is too hot and if the heatmat is unstatted then it could get even hotter. I would definitely do as SB says and turn the mat off. It wont matter for a few days. Thermostats can be bought from ebay or many other places online (usually cheaper than in shops) If buying new I get mine from here http://reptilekeeping.co.uk/index.php. I'm not sure if they are still the cheapest or not but they provide good service.

As for feeding in tubs or in viv. Do what you prefer. I do both depending on my mood and time. Sometimes i feed Alice and Swayze on an old sheet on the floor as they are getting a bit big for the feeding tub. I was disappointed tonight tho as they both refused to feed again. I though they might be hungry after shedding. So the mice have gone in their vivs for them to eat at will overnight, otherwise they will be going in the bin in the morning.

4.1.0 corns - Izzy (Carolina) Alice (Amel) Peanut (Butter Motley) Swayze (Ghost) Carmellia (Butter Motley)
0.1.0 cat - Kizzy
1.0.0 Dog - Dobbie
Location - Chesterfield, Derbyshire

www.support-dogs.org.uk
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lotabob
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
4334 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  21:56:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
These shops are so annoying, your asking them about something they could sell you and they say its not needed. Madness, specially when its one of the most important bits of kit in your setup. In its simplest definition the mat may run for years and never burn your snake but one day it suddenly starts overheating, with a stat it gets switched off before it burns the snake not to mention burn the house down, substrate is great kindling. All mats I've had and tested without stats hit 40oC+ which is too hot for corn snakes and prevents them thermo regulating, digesting properly and making full use of their space. I can tell you are looking for one which is good but as SexyBear77 says, switch the mat off until you get one just in case. It will do the snake no harm for a few days to be just at room temp and due to not having a heat source feeding is a no no or you'll bring on regurges and that no fun at all.

Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.

MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky
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snowstripe420
Egg

Canada
81 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2011 :  22:16:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you :) I spend an hour calling pet stores within 30km. And sadly nothing. so i got fed up and ordered one from amazon. Priority shipped. will be here 4-8 days :p.


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Sta~ple
qeeun speler

United Kingdom
6129 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  08:34:56  Show Profile  Click to see Sta~ple's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SexyBear77

I don't stick to the "1.5 times the width of the snake" rule for feeing either....

I don't either now or you end up with morbidly obese snakes....



A very special super, duper thanks for K :3
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bigal
Egg

United Kingdom
70 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  09:44:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I know that there is a slight possibility that heat mats can go wrong and overheat but I can't understand the panic shown by some people on here when an unstated mat is mentioned. My two both have stats now and I believe it is good practice however I did go 2 years without using a stat for Ghengis and he came to no harm. Many people run multiple mats on one stat which means that they are not protected from faulty mats in viv/rub that does not have the stat probe. It does mean that all the mats can be kept at optimum temp in normal operating situation and this has got to be a good thing. Thousands of mats are used daily, many unstated, as manufacturers often state that they can be. If snakes were constantly being burned as a result there would be a lot of publicity and mat manufacturers being sued. As this is not happening the worst thing will be that your warm end will be too warm and snake will avoid it (unless you are the one in x thousand that has a catastrophic mat failure and I am not sure anyone has the stats on this). Don't get me wrong I am very much in favour of stats It just seems to me that recommending switching off without knowing all the environmental factors is an over reaction. Snakes can get too cold as well as too hot !

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vetdebbie
Hatchling

United Kingdom
108 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  10:30:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We definately don't tub-feed ours! There would literally not be enough hours in the day if we did. However we use a slightly different substrate to most people that has no sharp bits and is believed to be digestible so we don't have those concerns.
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Sta~ple
qeeun speler

United Kingdom
6129 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  10:56:04  Show Profile  Click to see Sta~ple's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigal

I know that there is a slight possibility that heat mats can go wrong and overheat but I can't understand the panic shown by some people on here when an unstated mat is mentioned. My two both have stats now and I believe it is good practice however I did go 2 years without using a stat for Ghengis and he came to no harm. Many people run multiple mats on one stat which means that they are not protected from faulty mats in viv/rub that does not have the stat probe. It does mean that all the mats can be kept at optimum temp in normal operating situation and this has got to be a good thing. Thousands of mats are used daily, many unstated, as manufacturers often state that they can be. If snakes were constantly being burned as a result there would be a lot of publicity and mat manufacturers being sued. As this is not happening the worst thing will be that your warm end will be too warm and snake will avoid it (unless you are the one in x thousand that has a catastrophic mat failure and I am not sure anyone has the stats on this). Don't get me wrong I am very much in favour of stats It just seems to me that recommending switching off without knowing all the environmental factors is an over reaction. Snakes can get too cold as well as too hot !



I don't know what heatmats you've been using but mine always came with a warning that a stat should be used, but I have only ever used one brand! People panic as most new owners do not have enough experience yet to deal with the issues of unstatted mats. It may not burn your snake but it would make it uncomfortable and lead to stress and other problems. Heatmats are used to heat a range of animals, some needing gentle warming, others needing hot. I tested my hat once and it for to 45c, that is way too hot for a corn, and other "starter" snakes. It would be like a human carrying round a hot water bottle in summer, you could live with it but you wouldn't like it! And it's not a case of the number of snakes being burnt, andn show's being sued, it's the fact it could happen! £20 spent on a piece of equipment that will ensure the snake is kept at it's preferable tempreture and won't burn itself is much better that a grumpy or mentally ill snake that would be costly to take to a vet if it got burnt. And no, snake's will not avoid the warm end if it's too warm if the warm end is apparently too warm, they are pretty dumb like that.

I think the common misconception made by petshops and first time owners that when they hear that snakes need heat, they think they need very hot temps and will feel the heatmat too see if THEY think it's warm on their hands which can be too hot for snakey. Stats are kinda the pumps and filters of the gold fish world it seems XD



A very special super, duper thanks for K :3
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eeji
The Morph Master

United Kingdom
4335 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  13:12:13  Show Profile  Visit eeji's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The only advantage of feeding in a seperate tub is to prevent any substrate being accidentally eaten


Forum - Guide to Cornsnake Morphs - Punnett Square Calculator - Breeder Directory
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Spreebok
Sub Adult

United Kingdom
1135 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  22:31:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lister is tub fed, as I like to watch him eat :)
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Ailsa
Banned

United Kingdom
804 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2011 :  22:50:50  Show Profile  Click to see Ailsa's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I plan on feeding my new corn in her own tub when I get her - so i can watch her feed and weigh her before ;)


Dakota ~ Bloodred Corn ~ Amber & Chloe ~ Cats
Mind is changing on snakes I want now lol so am researching these to find out what would be best - Milk Snakes and Dwarf Boa possibly - Crawl Cay, Sonoran, Tarahumara or Vera Cruz and poss a Hoggie, African House and Rat snake. Also Trinket Snakes.
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