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Kehhlyr
ǝʞɐɔ sǝʌoן
United Kingdom
8173 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2011 : 03:07:37
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quote: Originally posted by CentricMalteser
......you should have thermostat at the warm end and one at the cold end..................
I assume you meant thermometer. If not then I need to buy another 13 stats because I only have them in the warm end. |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
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gmac
The Scottish Admin
United Kingdom
5319 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2011 : 03:10:33
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quote: Originally posted by CentricMalteser
kdlang, I didnt say to use tape, I said IF you decide to BE CAREFUL
I don't use time as I mentioned in another post, I've used Geocel Aquarium sealant to keep mine down, works a treat and is NOT toxic to any reptiles.
and i have the exact thermometre you posted the link for ebay
CentricMalteser, Kdlang didn't say you did use tape it was recommended that tape is not used within the snakes enclosure, which i find excellent advice.
Also please try not to use uppercase when speaking directly to someone on forums it is seen as shouting. |
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n/a
deleted
50 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2011 : 17:33:47
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An good quality analogue thermometer is at least as reliable as a digital one. The important part is to make sure either the sensor or the thermometer is on the heatmat itself along with a thermostatic control with the sensor in the same place.
I use a Microclimate Ministat 300 which has seen 8 years in service without any problems. The dial on the Microclimate is not accurate, it's set at 90 to acheive 85 per the temerature guage on the analogue thermometer in the vivarium.
If you are using a lamp in the vivarium during the evening it should be guarded and connected via a DIMMING THERMOSTATIC CONTROL with the heat sensor fixed in the vivarium slghtly above ground level so that it is reading the air temperature. It worth setting the lamp to around 78, as it's only on to view the sanke, and this will ensure the bulb and guard are running cool if the snake deceides to climb up and wrap itself around, which it will. |
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