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n/a
deleted
26 Posts |
 Posted - 15/07/2010 : 23:26:55
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Hey all, i did all the research, left him to settle in for a week, felt confident for the first pick up... and then bottled it stupidly.
I got him by the mid section and pulled upwards gently but he just kept flinching away and out of my (probably too loose) grip. i think its because every time i tried to get him, he turned his face to face my hand, which i read was bad if u pick a snake up from the front.
Thing is ive scared him now by being timid and spending too long trying to pick him up, i left my hand in faun for quite a while afterwards so he could smell my hand but he has just been in his hide ever since.
I need to get him out tomorrow to make adjustments to his faun so i can take the lid off properly and stuff, atm wires are in a stupid place. Should i try wearing gloves or using a home-made snake hook (any recommendations) for the next few time picking him up?
I have no problem holding him AT ALL once he is out, its the picking up. he's only a baby. Feeling a bit stupid now to be honest.
Cheers |
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DannyBrown91
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
3070 Posts |
Posted - 15/07/2010 : 23:41:40
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I wouldn't bother with gloves or a hook, especially for a baby corn.
Both will most probably make a fiddly job even more fiddly.
And trust me a bite won't hurt, all mine bar rocky have tagged me and at the size they are none have drew blood, infact the only time you feel it is when they head butt you...
I would just try to be as quick and therefore as stress free as possible. It may be worth taking the lid off his faun,lifting his hide up and scooping him up. Be quick though otherwise he may make a run for it.
When i pick candy up, because he is really diddy, i find it easier to get him out of a hide rather than when he is zooming around his faun.
And don't worry about holding him with a little bit of pressure, aslong as you don't squeeze him he'll be ok. |
0.0.1 Ghost Corn - Casper
0.0.1 Diffused Corn - Reggie
0.0.1 Amel Corn - Candy A.K.A Baby
1.0 Commom BCI - Rocky
0.1 Japanese Akita - Sasha
Location: Liverpool |
Edited by - DannyBrown91 on 15/07/2010 23:43:37 |
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hillzi
The Lost boy.
United Kingdom
3984 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 10:40:55
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A firm grip is ideal, so he can move freely but not so he'll wriggle free.
I find it easier to get my big male out when he's a-cruising, as he's a big lad and doesn't like being picked up from above and sometimes he can wedge himself in his hide and if he dont want to come out he wont.. If i do manage to get him out, I usually end up dragging an XL large cave and a big hunk of driftwood and a plant out with me too. So I stick my hand in there/open the doors and he'll usually slither onto me.
Blaze however is a slippery sod, and tries to hop it at any time given to him, so i lift up his hide, and then hook him up with my finger then he's mine!  |
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herriotfan
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
5853 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 10:48:08
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| You just need to be brave....forget last time. Scoop him up. Once you've done it you'll feel so much better and have more confidence next time. |
Husband....Very Understanding!!! (Phil)
Son & Daughter (Kevin & Carol)
Granddaughter (Eva)
3.4.0 Cornsnakes Amel (Sidney) Caramel Stripe (Sultan) Amber (Cleo) Carolina (Phoebe) Anery Motley Stripe (Penny) Snow (Lily) Caramel (Holmes)
1.2.0 Royal Pythons(Peeps, Pandora & Pepsi)
1.0.0 Hognose (Hudson)
2.1.0 Dogs (Dillon, Alfie, Ellie)
0.1.0 Senegal Parrot (Peanut)
1.1.0 Bearded Dragons (Bonnie & Clyde)
1.0.0 Crested Geckos (Echo)
0.2.1 Hermanns Tortoises (Ebbie, Rosie & Twiglet)
0.1.0 Guinea Pig (Dolly-Pipsqueak)
0.1.9 Tarantulas (Poppy, Gypsy, Bumble, Insey Winsey, Sonic, Cookie, Raven, Fudge, Titch & Sox)
??? Foster animals
Location: Near Saffron Walden, Essex
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hiper2009
Banned
United Kingdom
2197 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 10:51:56
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As Danny has said above , Also try not to show any fear as snakes can pick up on this i would just stay calm and quickly pick him up instead of taking so long as it will end up stressing him out and thats prob why he is flintching as well.  |
0.0.0 Royal Python Het Pied 100% CB10 - Chaos
1.1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa CB10 - Bow/Mayhem
0.1.0 Cornsnake Amel Het Motley CB10 - Fire
1.0.0 Cornsnake Caramel Het Motley CB09 - Whisky
1.0.0 Cornsnake Snow Het Stripe CB07 - Romeo - R.I.P
1.0.0 Super Golden Labrador Dog CB02 - Bailey
Wish List:
1.2.0 Royal Python - Pastel , Pinstripe , Lesser. |
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Kellog
the nice one
United Kingdom
7308 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 12:46:20
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Firstly Mojo, you didnt mess up! This was your first attempt at something totally new and it is no wonder you were unsure as to how to go about it. No matter how much you have read about it, it cannot prepare you for the real thing.
The main thing now is not to let this experience effect you....you have to go in there and pick him up gently and confidently - if you dont feel confident then fake it, cos he will pick up your nerves.
Check out this thread as it may give you some pointers that could help - http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9824
xxx
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mikerichards
don't say the 'M' word!
United Kingdom
2901 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 13:25:19
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To be blunt and to the point, man up!! Its not gonna hurt, it won't even break the skin, that's IF he decides to bite, the fact he turns to face you is more likely him wondering what the fuss is about. Never wear gloves with baby snakes, its too difficult to feel how much pressure you are using, the only time gloves are really needed are for venemous.
In all seriousness, just do it, they are tougher than they look and can handle a bit of abuse, obviously don't get physical with it, that won't help! Be firm and confident, the worst part of the bite is the fact they move so quickly, it makes you jump! On that note, its important you don't pull away from a bite, I know the reaction is to pull away sharply, but you can damage their teeth doing that.
That is however, vastly easier said than done!! |
Location : Worthing, West Sussex
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DannyBrown91
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
3070 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 13:32:48
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quote:
Originally posted by mikerichards
the only time gloves are really needed are for venemous.
Or for an anti-social BCI ayy mike |
0.0.1 Ghost Corn - Casper
0.0.1 Diffused Corn - Reggie
0.0.1 Amel Corn - Candy A.K.A Baby
1.0 Commom BCI - Rocky
0.1 Japanese Akita - Sasha
Location: Liverpool |
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Sta~ple
qeeun speler
United Kingdom
6129 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 15:19:30
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quote:
Originally posted by mikerichards
it won't even break the skin
I think you need to meet my little hatchie... :p
Try and scoop him up if you can, offer you hand out to him and see if he takes it. I have never heard of it being bad picking up snakes from the front, I would think that's one of the better options to be honest. Going from above the don't like.
He is more likely to rattle at you than bite and bites really don't hurt, its more of a shock to be honest because of how fast they do it. Handling him for a while should stop him from flinching away. |
  
A very special super, duper thanks for K :3 |
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n/a
deleted
124 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 17:35:56
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Don't worry that you got it wrong the first time - we've all been there. The important thing is not to let that attempt put you off because the longer you leave it the bigger issue it becomes for both of you.
You do need to ensure you pick him up relatively quickly - I find if you leave your hand in the faun for too long it gives snakey the time to start getting nervous (and also you!)
As others have said, you need to be firm and confident. With my little ones, I've found the best way is to put both hands in and scoop him up, making sure you've then got a relatively firm grip before moving your hands away from above the faun.
Only hold him for a short time (5 mins max) the first time and gradually extend that as you both become more confident.
I've never been tagged by any of mine, but really can't believe that a baby would hurt that much. My 2 year old bit my son and drew blood but it was the speed of the strike that upset him most (he was only 7 at the time) and he said the bite itself didn't really hurt (and he's the biggest drama queen you've ever met  ). |
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n/a
deleted
111 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 18:46:31
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| what! dont be a tart u said hes only a baby pick him wots wrong with u |
winston |
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n/a
deleted
26 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 19:47:47
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Thanks for all the reples guys, i picked him up today just fine twice, and he had his first feed really well
I have a feeling he is starting shedding cycle though, his skin has dulled quite a lot. But all's well now, mind totally eased :) |
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Kellog
the nice one
United Kingdom
7308 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 20:13:26
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quote:
Originally posted by mojo0070
Thanks for all the reples guys, i picked him up today just fine twice, and he had his first feed really well
I have a feeling he is starting shedding cycle though, his skin has dulled quite a lot. But all's well now, mind totally eased :)
Great to hear Mojo, well done.
One point, you say that you picked him up today twice and that his first feed went really well....was that all today? It is best if you dont handle before a feed, other than to just pick him up to move him to a feeding RUB and back. You dont want to cause any added excitement or stress before he feeds. If I have got that wrong I am sorry  .
So good when you get that first feed out of the way, such a relief !
It does sound as though he may be heading towards a shed, you do tend to notice the skin dulling before the eyes go cloudy....so you have your first shed coming soon as well!!
xxx
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n/a
deleted
26 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 20:29:04
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I only handled him today because i had to do a bit of maintenance (melting hole through faun for wires).
So i got him out and at the same time my partner fed him. Ive read so many different things now i dont know what to do :p Ive read that they can be handled before but not after a feed (48 hours after). Ive also read no handling before for 48 hours. He eats every 4-5 days so if i took into account everything ive read, he'd never be handled.
Ill make sure he isn't handled now for 48 hours and next feed ill leave him a bit beforehand.
Now the thermostats driving me mad, since placing the 2 probes back in, Ive been constantly adjusting the stat. I move it one tiny notch up and it sends tank to 31 degrees before turning off. I turn it one notch down and it sends tank down to 25 before mat comes back on  Which one of these is best? because it doesn't stay on either of the temps (31 or 25) for longer than 5 minutes anyway.
Cheers |
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Kellog
the nice one
United Kingdom
7308 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 20:38:36
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You can have a proper handle in the morning if you are going to feed them in the evening, but if you are about to feed them then you need to keep the handling to a minimum. I did answer your question about handling and feeding in your other thread 'Got my 1st corn today....' This is what I said:
You are right about not handling for 48hrs after a feed Mojo but it is ok just to gently pick your snake up and move it back to its faun/viv after it has fed, as long as you wait until the 'bump' is about in the middle of the snake and there is no unnecessary handling.
Some people use kitchen roll in their containers and then pick the kitchen roll up, using it like a hammock, to move their snakes (although obviously you would have to make sure that the kitchen roll was strong enough). Others hold the container near the viv doors or over the faun opening and allow their snake to slide back of its own accord.
I pick mine up, being careful to support if on either side of the 'bump' and gently put them back in their vivs.
I have no idea where you got the information about not handling for 48hrs before a feed but dont believe it  ....you are right, if you did that and the 48hrs afterwards you would never get to handle him  !!
Not sure what to advise regarding the stat. Are you leaving it for a period to settle in before adjusting it again, as in a number of hours? I would THINK that letting the temp drop to 25oC temporarily is better than letting it get up to 31oC....but I am no expert.
Sorry I cant help you more.
xxx
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n/a
deleted
26 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 20:42:42
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Thanks for being so helpful :). Im just fed up with this stupid on/off stat, im going to invest in a pulse stat asap, i dont like the drop in temps before the mat comes back on.
Sorry i forgot about your post in my other thread, ive made a few posts in several places cause ive been researching so much :p just want him to be as comfortable as possible, same with all my pets. |
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Kellog
the nice one
United Kingdom
7308 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 20:49:59
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You are having exactly the same reaction to the on/off stat that I had and I changed to the pulse stat and am so much happier with it. I know that a lot of forum members seem to use the on/off stats without a problem but I dont know whether they get less of a temp fluctuation and yours is (and mine was) malfunctioning or whether they are just happy with that much difference. All I know is that I am less stressed having a stat that is giving me a temp fluctuation of about 1oC either way.
You are doing great by him Mojo....and you are proving it by all the questions you are asking and how hard you are working to get everything perfect for him.
xxx
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Edited by - Kellog on 16/07/2010 21:01:11 |
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deleted
26 Posts |
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Sta~ple
qeeun speler
United Kingdom
6129 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 23:10:40
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That pulse stat is fine, I use it :) I keeps the temps normally with a degree. That is the cheapest I have ever seen them. A lot of shops sell them for £45-50
Is there anyway you could swap your on/off stat though but I guess it depends where you go it from. |
A very special super, duper thanks for K :3 |
Edited by - Sta~ple on 16/07/2010 23:11:56 |
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n/a
deleted
26 Posts |
Posted - 16/07/2010 : 23:51:09
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| no way i could swap unfortunately, but i have a couple of things selling on ebay anyway so ill use the money i raise for a better stat, hopefully that one will still be there. |
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Handling advice, i messed first time up a bit..
