| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| n/a |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 01:42:04
i have had my snake for almost 2 months he is about 4 and is 4.5ft he shed last on the 2-10-10 and had a really good shed it all come off in one i tried him with a few mice over a few weeks and he just wasnt interested so the shop said its prob cause he is still settling in ( even tho i brought the viv that he has always lived in but i suppose new owner and house ) on the 13-10-10 he ate 1 mouse and brought it back up 2 days later on the 25-10-10 he took a chick and still has kept it down i just wanted to ask what i should do to help him keep it down he has 2 hides one at each end , a heat mat and a light , and deep aspen bedding and he has loads of tunnels he has made all around his viv , its been so cold that the heat mat isnt keeping the viv warm enough but the light is i feed him in his viv but i put a big plasic tray in so him eating any aspen is not a problem , i just need advice on the best digestion conditions ! i think maybe last time it was a temp prob ? |
| 20 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| gingerpony |
Posted - 15/11/2010 : 20:47:32
quote:
Originally posted by eeji
I've even heard bad advice in one of the best shops around here (no names, but has an excellent reputation)
same here, a very reputable local shop, i even felt the need to follow the customer out of the shop and have a 'quick word' to put her straight and point her in this direction!  |
| n/a |
Posted - 14/11/2010 : 02:18:34
i got another baby today a amel she is stunning ! , all the advice i have read online has all contridicted each other but i find the best advice comes from here people on here actually care about yr snake cause they have a passion for it and dont wanna snake to get ill or worse when there experience helps newbies to owning corns like me lol , i think they have a light set up for there corns and not heat mats i aint sure tho so dont quote me on that my flat is quite cold so had to get a light for my viv to keep the temp up and like i say he has since eaten a chick so think my problem is solved ! :) |
| eeji |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 22:23:19
that really doesn't surprise me. I've even heard bad advice in one of the best shops around here (no names, but has an excellent reputation) so it really does pay to read around from lots of different sources. I know a lot of sources will contradict each other, but if you read enough the good advice should start making a pattern and you can make your own decisions. |
| Sta~ple |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 20:58:48
quote:
Originally posted by sarah0512
it was in jc's sta-ple all the info i find online i always find something that goes against what another site / care sheet says so i go there to ask them but people have told me what they say is mostly totally wrong or they show me to do something the wrong way !
I know what you mean about the sites. That has surprised me that JC exotics told you that. Everyone seems to rave about how good they are, and you would think they would would their stuff specially with all the animals they sell there :o suppose it doesn't really help when some of the heat mat instructions so say to use on the wall but you certainly don't with snakes, maybe with other animals.
Eeji both of the shops that sell snakes here are kinda bad at advise :( |
| eeji |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 20:45:22
tbh i would steer clear of that shop, that is shockingly bad advice they have given you :( The mat needs to be on the floor covering approx 1/3 of one end controlled by a thermostat at around 26-28 deg C(ish). Prolonged periods of too high a temperature can cause all sorts of problems from eating right up to neurological damage.
For a regurged snake I would leave it alone for a few weeks, only disturbing to change the water, and Reptoboost mixed in with the water is good stuff to get their stomachs working again. |
| n/a |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 13:19:44
it was in jc's sta-ple all the info i find online i always find something that goes against what another site / care sheet says so i go there to ask them but people have told me what they say is mostly totally wrong or they show me to do something the wrong way ! |
| mikerichards |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 10:51:29
some of mine prefer white mice to any other colour. |
| gingerpony |
Posted - 13/11/2010 : 09:17:28
quote:
Originally posted by Skorsis
I was told 31 is the correct temperature for snakes?
it might be for some snakes but certainly not for all!
for example, snakes indigenous to the UK aren't used to 31*C and would probably struggle being kept at that temp, snakes from Africa would tolerate it well though
the optimal temp varies from species to species |
| Sta~ple |
Posted - 12/11/2010 : 23:12:33
quote:
Originally posted by sarah0512
yeah in c the shop told me to keep it at round 31C so i have what temp should i be keeping the warm end at in C , i live in the same place as you sta-ple in lincoln so its not been warm at all infact my flat has been quite cold !
Sorry just saw this! What shop was this? Sadly the rep shops in Lincoln aren't as great as in other places :( I am interested to hear what else they have told you too.
Are these mice you are getting from the same shop? I know a shop in Lincoln that feeds/tells people to feed to bigger food. It's not a completely bizaar thing about mouse colour either but he might be refusing the mouse for other reasons. |
| n/a |
Posted - 12/11/2010 : 22:50:14
he has since eaten a chick and kept it down :D i think it was just cause he wasnt settled in properly but i have tried giving him a brown mouse since and he aint interested has any1 else had probs with there snakes not eating mice that aint white ? |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 31/10/2010 : 19:10:57
quote:
Originally posted by sullysteve
I just need to point out one very important thing about the regurge. My BRB suffered the same thing. All i did was move her off the water bowl so i could clean it. This was just 12 hours from feed. The regurge happened 5 days after feed. so even a slight handle can cause this among other things. But basically, you must not feed him for at least 2 weeks. This will allow him to rebuild the acids in order to avoid another regurge. I would also start with a smaller meal. Maybe you already fed him....:)
I wouldn't be so sure that it was the handling that caused your BRB's regurge- 5 days after a feed is a very long time to go before it comes back up, especially if the handling was a mere 12 hours after. |
| chrish |
Posted - 31/10/2010 : 18:41:51
Same here  |
| sullysteve |
Posted - 31/10/2010 : 18:40:51
I just need to point out one very important thing about the regurge. My BRB suffered the same thing. All i did was move her off the water bowl so i could clean it. This was just 12 hours from feed. The regurge happened 5 days after feed. so even a slight handle can cause this among other things. But basically, you must not feed him for at least 2 weeks. This will allow him to rebuild the acids in order to avoid another regurge. I would also start with a smaller meal. Maybe you already fed him....:) |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 31/10/2010 : 17:52:08
I keep all mine at 27-29c for the hot end with the cool end just at room temperature. |
| n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2010 : 17:35:54
quote:
Originally posted by mikerichards
ideally you want the warm end about 28 degrees C, the cold end will take care of itself. 31 is ok though, just not peramanently.
I was told 31 is the correct temperature for snakes? (I respond in this thread because my corn is also doing the 48 hour regurge thing OP) As far as I know, the temp has always been around 30-31 degrees c (it's how I've set my thermostat) in the viv, could this be one of the contributing factors to my problem? |
| mikerichards |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 20:43:58
ideally you want the warm end about 28 degrees C, the cold end will take care of itself. 31 is ok though, just not peramanently. |
| n/a |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 20:09:21
yeah in c the shop told me to keep it at round 31C so i have what temp should i be keeping the warm end at in C , i live in the same place as you sta-ple in lincoln so its not been warm at all infact my flat has been quite cold ! |
| Sta~ple |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 19:37:56
quote:
Originally posted by sarah0512
right warm end 31 and cool end 28
That's very hot there sonny Jim in that cool end unless it's warm where you live, presuming that you mean in C? |
| mikerichards |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 18:36:34
their theory is sort of right, they are assuming that by putting the mat along the wall, its gonna heat the air up and make the ambient air temperature nice and warm for the snake. I say sort of right, because a heatmat wont heat air properly, its designed to heat what it touches, so thats the failure in the theory.
The aspen over the heatmat only want to be about 1/2 inch thick, bear in mind though that the snake will burrow down to the mat itself, so when you place the stat probe, make sure its in direct contact with the heatmat.
Corns, as with a lot of Ratsnakes will gather the heat they need from their belly, hence why bulbs and ceramics arent the right tools for the job, they work, but a heatmat is better.
leave it at least 48 hours from eating, especially if hes sensitive and regurges at any possible chance, once the lump has gone, then is a good time. If you have a hide that he can completely get into, then you can move that and hhim in one go, without disturbing him too much. Move your setup about, then just put him and the hide back in. |
| n/a |
Posted - 26/10/2010 : 17:59:47
i read that sticky before i made this post i cant belive they told me to put it on the back wall they said that they will burn if its on the floor but i do have a thermostat how deep should i make the aspen and what temp should i have it set at when its under the aspen ( on the stat ) ?? |
