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 Posted - 27/04/2010 : 11:22:57
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| hi all, i am a snake lover, used to keep pythons, bought my 1st corn about yr and half ago, and am loving it! had a few feeding questions recently but sorted now! Myself and my partner want to breed my corn, he is 18mth at the mo, but i want to make sure i have done all of my research and have a proper set up before doing so! i am about to buy a female corn about 2 yr and same size as mine, so i can try and breed aboutthis time next year, can anyone pls give me advice on the set up i will need to be successful pls? I am going to buy an incubator, thanks any help much appreciated caz |
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mikerichards
don't say the 'M' word!
United Kingdom
2901 Posts |
Posted - 27/04/2010 : 12:09:21
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Hi, breeding is something that you should really talk to as many people as you can about, its easy but at the same time there are a lot of little mistakes to make that can easily cost the clutch, and many people have many different ways of doing things, and as long as they are successfull then there is no wrong way. Like so many things with snakes, there is no dedicated right way of doing things, all snakes are different in themselves and require different treatment. However, there are many wrong ways, and i would suggest finding out about as much of the wrong ways as possible so you dont accidentally do something you might regret.
There is a simple rule of thumb for breeding corns, the rule of 3's, 3 foot, 300g, 3 years old. For the male this is not set in stone, neither is it for the female, but, its highly recommended as without the proper body weight, being gravid can and has killed many a young female.
Obviously the bigger the better, female wise, the bigger you get the stronger she is, the longer she can go without food, and potentially the more eggs she can lay, the male, whilst fertile at approx 18mnths, will tend to fire mostly blanks at that age, he wont be able to fertilise all her eggs, but at healthy 4ft male will fertilise 30 eggs a good couple of times.
Really, either get a bigger female to breed next year, or wait till the year after, so you know what your getting into.
You need to have a plan for the babies too, you could end up with 20 - 30 mouths to feed, and i can assure you, its expensive!
My feeding bill is roughly 150 a month, and thats without babies!
mind you, 2 snakes is gonna be a lot cheaper! but feeding babies, 20 pinkies a week, then perhaps 40, thats 10 to 20 quid a week, it soon mounts up.
I am not saying dont, i am just saying be as prepared as you can be, there is plenty of info on here, myself and a few others have experience breeding corns, and i for one am happy to chat for hours about it!
so any questions, fire away, and if i cant help, i am sure there will be someone who can.
Mike |
Location : Worthing, West Sussex
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Posted - 27/04/2010 : 12:20:20
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| brilliant that is a real help thanks very very much, my male is 18mth now, 300g at the moment, happy and healthy, and huge at 4 n hlf ft already (measured by reptile shop!) i was going to get a female soon, about 2 yrs old just over! keep her for a yr get used to her etc, make sure she is happy and healthy. i have a 5 ft viv with my male in at mo and a 4 ft to spare for the female, going to buy the verm and incubator. what should i have ready to keep hatchlings in? i will def do all of my research to avoid any problems and will devote myself to making sure i get the best result. I have tried my best with my corn and love the little thing to bits, he is a good temperament, and is at the moment showing signs of looking for a female! caz |
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14 Posts |
Posted - 27/04/2010 : 15:36:20
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| i have been looking at the incubators and am looking at a herpnursery, but it has a wire shelf, how would i put the eggs into here to incubate? would i need to transfer the eggs into a container with the verm first and then put them into the incubator? then just spray the verm?? |
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Posted - 27/04/2010 : 16:15:22
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| mike i have read all of ur posts etc on breeding and have decided to go with your home made inc, is going to be so much cheaper for me in the long run!!!! the tupperware box inside the polystyrene box, should that have a lid on? how do u keep the humidity up if it has a lid on? just by opening and spraying i presume?? |
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eeji
The Morph Master
United Kingdom
4335 Posts |
Posted - 27/04/2010 : 18:25:11
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you need a damp substrate in the egg tub, most popular is vermiculite or perlite. I don't put any ventilation in the egg boxes so they keep their own humidity - i open the boxes and give them a very quick waft every now and then to freshen the air inside.
I also use a layer of damp sphagnum moss on top of the eggs and this gets replaced when the eggs get aired with fresh damp moss. |
Forum - Guide to Cornsnake Morphs - Punnett Square Calculator - Breeder Directory
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Posted - 27/04/2010 : 18:32:51
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| ok that is brilliant thanks very much! I will do that, and i need to transfer them from the made egg nest box into the incubator dont i? rather than transferring the whole nest box over? |
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eeji
The Morph Master
United Kingdom
4335 Posts |
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Posted - 27/04/2010 : 19:16:37
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| yes sorry goes without saying really doesnt it? lol sorry was having a blonde moment! shall i keep a lid on the pot when it is inside the poly box? and how often should i spray the verm? help is very much appreciated thanks, just want to get it totally right. |
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mikerichards
don't say the 'M' word!
United Kingdom
2901 Posts |
Posted - 28/04/2010 : 14:50:49
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The vermiculite should already be damp when you put the eggs in, soak it in water and wring out as much water as you can, then let it sit in the tupperware box, put the eggs in there, then put in the poly box with a lid, put the egg box on some thing to keep it off the heatmat, and have you thermometer and stat probe in the poly box, ideally together. Once there, you can open up the egg box every now and then, and also give them a spray.
Not too often though, its very tempting! |
Location : Worthing, West Sussex
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1st time breed
