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 What is the best 'glass door gap sealer' please?
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smart bunny
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
5091 Posts

Posted - 18/02/2012 :  12:36:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've seen people talk about paper binders but not exactly sure how they fix them in place? Sorry for being dim but could someone elaborate please, are they just forced in, because if so couldn't the snake force them out again?

Our pet shop advised the foam draught excluder stuff but I think that is a bad idea due to the sticky aspect of the self adhesive - what do you think?

Also I just remebered another question - I've ordered some of those LED strip lights from eBay which are also on self adhesive backing - I wondered if it would be best to put a line of sealant down each edge after sticking on to prevent there being any risk (or is it flat enough that there isn't a risk?)

Thanks.

Auld Baldy
Ikea's Pimp

United Kingdom
1619 Posts

Posted - 18/02/2012 :  12:51:02  Show Profile  Visit Auld Baldy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Just close the doors and use the binder like a long wedge betwen the gap, or actually clip it along the edge of one of the doors.
A small snake should not be strong enough to push it off.

The problem with some self adhesive backing is that it can eventually weaken causing the strip to drop and expose the goo. Still sticky enough to cause damage to your snake.

The best solution is to use the kind which are held by small brackets which the light strip clips into.

I use these LEDBERG LED lights from IKEA.
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/90192071/


1.0.0: Miami Normal: Taggart
0.0.1: Carolina Normal: Wee Woody
0.0.1: Grey Rat Snake: Mirkey
0.0.1: Amel Corn: Blaze
1.0.0: Carpet Python: Vambo
0.0.1: MBK: Fester
0.0.1: Florida King Snake : Rattler (Rattle & Hum)
0.0.1. California King Snake: El Diablo Diego
0.2.0 Tarantulas : Ermintrude & Euphemia.
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kdlang
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
3556 Posts

Posted - 18/02/2012 :  13:58:57  Show Profile  Click to see kdlang's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I just push my paper binders onto the edge of the inner piece of glass. They can't be pushed off and seem to block the gap pretty well.

Since you have already ordered those lights then I would think that using sealant on the edges would be a good way of stopping them coming loose and exposing the sticky. However, you will need to keep snakey out of the viv for at least 48 hours to allow it to dry and the fumes to dissipate

4.1.0 corns - Izzy (Carolina) Alice (Amel) Peanut (Butter Motley) Swayze (Ghost) Carmellia (Butter Motley)
0.1.0 cat - Kizzy
1.0.0 Dog - Dobbie
Location - Chesterfield, Derbyshire

www.support-dogs.org.uk
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smart bunny
Fully Grown Corn

United Kingdom
5091 Posts

Posted - 18/02/2012 :  14:34:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oh, I see, actually clip them onto the glass door rather than in between the gap, duh thanks!!

I really like those lights Auld Baldy but there's no convenient Ikea near me and P&P is a bit high!

No worries about the sealant - I'm building the viv anyway, so sealant going all around and Corno still in her faun!

The only thing I'm now worrying about is - I need to put the cables in the viv before I seal it... but of course my stat probe is currently in the faun. I don't really want to buy another stat just for the sake of a transfer, but that would leave Corno with no stat - and therefore of course no heat unless I was constantly watching the temps and thermostatted them by hand!! - for the 48hrs whilst the sealant dries...

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Dancross0
Sub Adult

United Kingdom
1315 Posts

Posted - 18/02/2012 :  15:02:00  Show Profile  Visit Dancross0's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by smart bunny



The only thing I'm now worrying about is - I need to put the cables in the viv before I seal it... but of course my stat probe is currently in the faun. I don't really want to buy another stat just for the sake of a transfer, but that would leave Corno with no stat - and therefore of course no heat unless I was constantly watching the temps and thermostatted them by hand!! - for the 48hrs whilst the sealant dries...



I've found the best thing to do with cables is drill out the holes so the probe goes through and seal the inside of the hole with wood glue.

To prevent any escape through the holes, cut two small bits of plastic from a margarine tub (any thin plastic will do!), drill a hole the same width as the cable, and put a cut from the outside of the plastic to the cable hole. Looks like this...



Then just coil an elastic band around the cable, slip the plastic bits over on the inside, and do the same on the outside. Then you can remove any of the electronics if you need to without a lot of fuss and bother. The finished bit should look like this, only all pushed up tight.


Awesome paint skills here!



Aguna CB11 Anery - Typhon CB12 Amber - Plissken CB08 Carolina - Iara CB11 Caramel

Indra CB12 Lavender (?) - Evren CB12 Carolina (?) - Ophis CB11 Hypo Lavender - Sirae CB11 Ghost Motley



Edited by - Dancross0 on 18/02/2012 15:09:55
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