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deleted
4 Posts |
 Posted - 02/02/2011 : 18:21:16
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| Hi My son has a cornsnake thats 7 months old. He has been eating pinkies and we have just gone on to fuzzies. He has beeen fed 2 now and both times after a few days he regurgates it - it as though he has left the skin. he didn't do this with the pinkies. Not sure what to do - carry on with the fuzzies, take him to the vet or go back to pinkies? Can anyone help? Nicky |
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Invalid User
Account Deactivated
United Kingdom
0 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2011 : 18:59:42
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Hi. The regurge could be down to many things.
What is your snakes housing like, how is it heated etc? as much detail as possible will help us to give you some advice.
Sorry if you already know this but you must leave him alone for 48 hours after a feed, do not handle him.
You now need to leave him without food for at least 10 days to let his tummy settle before you offer him any food.
Temps can be an issue too which is why I asked about your setup, if the temps are wrong it can cause a regurge.
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lotabob
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
4334 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2011 : 21:32:46
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Partial digestion is most likley either your temperatures not been hot enough or handling too soon. It also cant be ruled out that the fuzzies you are feeding are too big. The fuzzies are supposed to be no thicker than 1.5 times the thickness of the snake at the snakes thickest point. If the size is right then check your temperatures including the equipment you use to measure temperature.
What temperature is your snake kept at and how do you monitor it? |
Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
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lrv2307
Yearling
United Kingdom
863 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 09:24:17
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ive just moved my corn from pinkies to fuzzies, at first she didnt want to know, so started by giving her two pinkies for a few weeks
you can ask for small fuzzies where you buy them from, or like lotabob said, handling too soon, i give morgana at least 3 days as its a bigger meal for her little body
worse thing i have to deal with is her pooping on me everytime i get her out lol
good luck hun, but if unsure id go back to giving him two pinkies at meal time |
lrv (louise)
Uxbridge, Middlesex
0.1.0 snow - morgana
0.1.0 cali banded king - boudica
0.0.1 crested gecko - galaxy
** wish list**
ghost corn
anery corn
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4 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 15:13:56
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Thanks for your replies.
I think the fuzzie may have been too big for him and will try him with 2 pinkies after waiting 10 days after I last fed him. He is in a plastic vivarium/tank with a heat mat under the tank at one end. I don't have a temperature gauge on the tank so don't know what temperature it is. Should I get one? Thanks |
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scubadude
Hatchling
United Kingdom
366 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 15:45:42
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Hi ,
You will need to get a digital aquarium thermometer with probe ASAP the dial ones are pretty much useless(ebay usually good about £4) can I ask without a thermometer how you set the temperature for your thermostat.
Cheers |
1.0.0 Classic corn snake - Dodge,2.2.0 Normal Royal - Palin,Detritus, Lyssa & Sofia,1.0.0 Spider royal - Anan,1.0.0 Mojave Royal - Ocha,1.0 Butter Royal - Huritt,0.1 Pastel ph ghost - Weeko,0.1 Yellowbelly - Loni,1.1.0 crawl cay boas -Maya & Pech,1.0.0 Hypo hog island boa - Harley,0.1.0 Hog island Boa - Babe
   
   
opinions are like ars*holes, everyone's got one, but you don't need to share them with the world. |
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deleted
4 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 17:52:02
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| ok will have a look on ebay and get one. the heat pad doesn't have a thermostat? |
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Invalid User
Account Deactivated
United Kingdom
0 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 18:03:14
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| You need a thermostat then too asap as your heat mat is almost certainly getting way too hot. |
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dizzie85
Hatchling
United Kingdom
242 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 19:23:14
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The heatpad can reach temps of 39C ... or more I know because I have one of mine in a plastic faun ontop of a heatpad and everynow and then when the thermostat probe comes out of place the readings shoot up to 36-39c which is WAY too hot... As your laying a faun ontop it quickly warms up too much in there!
No warmer than 31C I was told to keep the warm end at. If moneys tight (not suggesting it is) how about looking on ebay for a vivarium complete set up? I got my 3ft with thermostat, heatmat, digital thermomiter and hides for £80 I thought it was quite a deal and saved me money long term rather than buying it all seperate. |
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eeji
The Morph Master
United Kingdom
4335 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2011 : 19:24:24
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quote:
Originally posted by Nicky
ok will have a look on ebay and get one. the heat pad doesn't have a thermostat?
this is most likely the reason for the regurge. If the mat is getting too warm for him he will stay on the cool end which won't be warm enough to digest properly. |
Forum - Guide to Cornsnake Morphs - Punnett Square Calculator - Breeder Directory
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deleted
4 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2011 : 18:49:19
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| Well thanks for all your advice. I think the fuzzies were too big for him and have put him on to 2 pinkies for the past 2 feeds and he isn't regurgitating them. Have bought a thermostat probe and its 31.1 on the warm end. Have started looking for a vivarium for him too. Thanks again. |
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lotabob
Fully Grown Corn
United Kingdom
4334 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2011 : 20:41:26
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Its too hot! Aim for 28 degrees, 30 is the hottest I'd let my tank get before taking the snake out of there while I sort it.
Its your temps causing the regurge, unlikely to be the size if he can swallow it, if the mat is too hot they wont go to the warm end and then be too cold to digest in the cold end so regurge what they cant digest before decay sets in.
When you say thermostat, have you actually bought a thermostat that controls the temperature of the mat or just a thermometer to monitor the temperature, you need both and until you get a thermostat, stop feeding the snake, turn off the heat mat and put the whole tank into the warmest room of the house. |
Anery Corn snake SPOT. Royal Python, DUKE. Hogg Island Boa, SANKE. Albino House Snake, HAL.
Harlequin Crested Gecko HARLEY
Albino Horned Frog WAKA
Chilean Rose Tarantula TRIXIE. Brazilian Salmon Pink Bird-eating Tarantula SAM. Orange Baboon Tarantula BORIS.
Giant Asian Forest Scorpion, SALLY.
Giant African Land Snails, SHELDON & MICHELLE.
Budwing Mantis, MAIA
Dubia Roach Colony. Silkworm Colony. Mealworm Colony. Waxworm Colony. Fruit Beetle Colony.
MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL http://www.youtube.com/user/alocheeky |
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crazysnakeman
Snake Mite
42 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2011 : 23:51:22
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Agreed - I keep mine at 29 degrees, they do fine around that! 30 at the max - I know it seems like "it's only one degree warmer" but really, it can make all the difference! A great book is by Bill and Kathy Love - Comprehensive Guide to Corns - it's relatively inexpensive (especially if you compare it to a thermostat or anything else we have to fork out for as herp lovers!) but it is a really really good source for information! You can get answers to questions you have in 2 seconds instead of waiting for us to get back to you - which can sometimes take a while!
Hope the little ones ok, I'd suggest just feeding the head of a pinkie mouse next time - stomach acids will be weak, and more and more regurges are likely now unless you move the food size right down.. Good luck!
Josh |
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Kehhlyr
ǝʞɐɔ sǝʌoן
United Kingdom
8173 Posts |
Posted - 13/02/2011 : 03:50:17
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quote:
Originally posted by lotabob
Its too hot! Aim for 28 degrees, 30 is the hottest I'd let my tank get before taking the snake out of there while I sort it................
I wouldn't.
I regularly have my corn viv hit 30c, that's when I just think "fractional adjustment to stat" then job is done.
I've had my rep room hit 38c, trying to get 14 vivs to drop down to 28c when you've had an uncontrolled heat spike (the big firey ball in the sky is bloody irritating sometimes!) can be awkward sometimes, but with the correct equipment you can stop a mat from cooking your snake as opposed to getting a couple degrees to hot.
Was discussing a near identical thing with someone earlier, 28c is the IDEAL temp not a compulsory temp.
A degree or 2 fluctation happens, which is why the ideal temp listed on our care sheet lists it as "around 30c" and many other care sheets will say "27-31c".
There is an ideal temp range, if it's in that then woo. It not then sort it.
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-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
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Edited by - Kehhlyr on 13/02/2011 04:06:05 |
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Invalid User
Account Deactivated
United Kingdom
0 Posts |
Posted - 13/02/2011 : 11:29:29
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quote:
Originally posted by Kehhlyr
quote:
Originally posted by lotabob
Its too hot! Aim for 28 degrees, 30 is the hottest I'd let my tank get before taking the snake out of there while I sort it................
I wouldn't.
I regularly have my corn viv hit 30c, that's when I just think "fractional adjustment to stat" then job is done.
I've had my rep room hit 38c, trying to get 14 vivs to drop down to 28c when you've had an uncontrolled heat spike (the big firey ball in the sky is bloody irritating sometimes!) can be awkward sometimes, but with the correct equipment you can stop a mat from cooking your snake as opposed to getting a couple degrees to hot.
Was discussing a near identical thing with someone earlier, 28c is the IDEAL temp not a compulsory temp.
A degree or 2 fluctation happens, which is why the ideal temp listed on our care sheet lists it as "around 30c" and many other care sheets will say "27-31c".
There is an ideal temp range, if it's in that then woo. It not then sort it.
All my corns mats hit 30c and it's what I aim for. They only drop to 28c then click back on again. Sometimes they do go slightly above 30, maybe 30.2 but I don't think 0.2 is gonna do any real harm so I don't evacuate my snakes in a mad panic. I just do as Kehhlyr does and slightly adjust the stat.
I have had no regurge issues, no bad sheds, all corns eat and have never refused a meal so in my opinion my setups are perfect for my snakes.
I do think people get a bit obsessive with temps. |
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moving from pinkies to fuzzies
