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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
 Posted - 01/08/2008 : 17:49:48
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This is my ENIGMA male (het bell)
This is one of my MACK SNOW females
This is my new TUG SNOW unsexed
I can't wait to start breeding my Leopard Geckos  |
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dazb
The Corn Snake Moderator
United Kingdom
1278 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 17:57:04
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you got some good ones there dude.
wots in your dish in the 4th pic. (the powder) |
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dazb
The Corn Snake Moderator
United Kingdom
1278 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 17:57:04
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you got some good ones there dude.
wots in your dish in the 4th pic. (the powder) |
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Blackecho
The Corn Snake Admin
United Kingdom
4379 Posts |
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Blackecho
The Corn Snake Admin
United Kingdom
4379 Posts |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:07:08
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dazb; Calypso calcium powder.
Thanks BE  |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:07:08
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dazb; Calypso calcium powder.
Thanks BE |
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dazb
The Corn Snake Moderator
United Kingdom
1278 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:10:14
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| do you leave that in all the time and dust your food aswell??? |
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dazb
The Corn Snake Moderator
United Kingdom
1278 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:10:14
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| do you leave that in all the time and dust your food aswell??? |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:40:09
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Yeah the calypso calcium powder is in all the vivs for each gecko all the time. They can eat it when they want if they need to.
I dust my food with nutrobal or this other vitamin/mineral powder I can't remember the name of lol. I do this every other feed.
My crickets are fed calcium in their 'gut loading' diet I provide for them.
This is the routine I now use which works well.
calcium powder available 24/7
calcium fed to live food (not roaches)
nutrobal used every other day to dust live food
The other vit/min powder I would use on alternate days to using pure calcium powder rather than mixing the two, if not using nutrobal. |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 18:40:09
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Yeah the calypso calcium powder is in all the vivs for each gecko all the time. They can eat it when they want if they need to.
I dust my food with nutrobal or this other vitamin/mineral powder I can't remember the name of lol. I do this every other feed.
My crickets are fed calcium in their 'gut loading' diet I provide for them.
This is the routine I now use which works well.
calcium powder available 24/7
calcium fed to live food (not roaches)
nutrobal used every other day to dust live food
The other vit/min powder I would use on alternate days to using pure calcium powder rather than mixing the two, if not using nutrobal. |
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gingerpony
Queen Bee
United Kingdom
10455 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 19:23:57
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| Yeah I like the tug snow best too, he's a sweetie! |
cornsnakes, ratsnakes, bullsnakes, boas and day geckos
Location:Leeds/York/Selby area |
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gingerpony
Queen Bee
United Kingdom
10455 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 19:23:57
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| Yeah I like the tug snow best too, he's a sweetie! |
cornsnakes, ratsnakes, bullsnakes, boas and day geckos
Location:Leeds/York/Selby area |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 19:41:26
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I'm hoping it will turn out to be female. Apparently it was incubated for female, but you never know  |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 19:41:26
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| I'm hoping it will turn out to be female. Apparently it was incubated for female, but you never know |
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Blackecho
The Corn Snake Admin
United Kingdom
4379 Posts |
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Blackecho
The Corn Snake Admin
United Kingdom
4379 Posts |
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PunkAsF82
Yearling
United Kingdom
909 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 20:19:37
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| help! how/what do you use to gutload? getting my beardie tomorrow and not sure what to feed mealworms and crickets to gutload them! oh yeh, do mealworms... develop into anything? like flies or summat? and how long do they live etc? xx |
~~ My Zoo ~~
1.0.0 Bearded Dragon - Cooper
0.1.0 Amel corn - Lucky
0.1.0 Normal Leopard Gecko - Layla
1.1.0 Cats - Zelda the Maine Coon & Link the Ragdoll X Tabby
0.0.50 Malawi Cichlids
0.0.20 Community fish tank
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Edited by - PunkAsF82 on 01/08/2008 20:20:06 |
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PunkAsF82
Yearling
United Kingdom
909 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 20:19:37
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| help! how/what do you use to gutload? getting my beardie tomorrow and not sure what to feed mealworms and crickets to gutload them! oh yeh, do mealworms... develop into anything? like flies or summat? and how long do they live etc? xx |
~~ My Zoo ~~
1.0.0 Bearded Dragon - Cooper
0.1.0 Amel corn - Lucky
0.1.0 Normal Leopard Gecko - Layla
1.1.0 Cats - Zelda the Maine Coon & Link the Ragdoll X Tabby
0.0.50 Malawi Cichlids
0.0.20 Community fish tank
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Edited by - PunkAsF82 on 01/08/2008 20:20:06 |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 22:19:52
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gut loading your live food is where you feed things like porridge oats, calcium powder & cat/dog biscuits as a dry food. Then carrot & apple for moisture & additional nutrition. This makes your live food taste less like cardboard & actually contain something that will be beneficial to your leopard gecko, beardie, water dragon, etc.
Feed the live food up at least 24 to 48 hours before feeding them to your lizard.
if you want to keep/breed mealworms then use a substrate of porridge oats about 1 to 2 inches deep & provide a piece of apple or carrot removing & replacing every few days. Keep moisture down to a minimum & temp around 90*F. They will grow then turn into 'aliens' then beetles. The 'aliens' do nothing just wiggle & the beetles breed & lay eggs. The beetles can fly but not very well & mostly just walk about. They will live, breed & die in the substrate. you can seperate the beetles into a seperate container with a similar set up if you like or you can just leave them to get on with it. The mealworms take forever to grow to 'feedable' size.
Crickets can have a porridge oat substarte or none at all. same dry food as the mealies & the carrot & apple for moisture. Again keep the moisture levels low. provide a container/jar a few inches deep of sand for the females to lay eggs in. The crickets tend to smell a bit but I dont really notice it much, plus they cherp at night alot.
Plastic boxes with small ventilation holes drilled/burnt into the sides work well. If drilling keep the drill on a low/slow setting to avoid splitting the plastic or use a soldering iron to burn holes. This is easier, but smels of the the burning plastic so better to do outside. Be very careful with the soldering iron as it will melt through your flesh. These are pretty cheap from markets, cheap shops for about £3 & quicker than drilling. It's up to you though.
Make sure there are plenty of holes some in the sides at the top & in the lid. The mealies cannot climb & I haven't had a cricket escape either but maybe keep the holes smaller than the width of the mealies or small crickets.
Egg cartons are best for allowing the live food to hide/live in too & they will most likey breed amongst it too. Just have some horizontal & some vertical. Replace these every month or so.
You can either use a heatmat, lamp or keep the live food in a warm room up high on a shelf or something.
With the crickets you can provide a small dish with a little water & screwed up kitchen roll to stop the crickets drowning. They will be able to drink if the want to.
If you just wantot keep them alive then store the crickets/mealies in the fridge door as it's usually slight less cool than the shelves. just let the live food wake up a bit & add supplements like nutrobal before feeding. The only thing with cooling them is they last longer but cannot eat like they would if warm so would they be less gut loaded ?
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Edited by - n/a on 01/08/2008 22:20:11 |
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n/a
deleted
891 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2008 : 22:19:52
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gut loading your live food is where you feed things like porridge oats, calcium powder & cat/dog biscuits as a dry food. Then carrot & apple for moisture & additional nutrition. This makes your live food taste less like cardboard & actually contain something that will be beneficial to your leopard gecko, beardie, water dragon, etc.
Feed the live food up at least 24 to 48 hours before feeding them to your lizard.
if you want to keep/breed mealworms then use a substrate of porridge oats about 1 to 2 inches deep & provide a piece of apple or carrot removing & replacing every few days. Keep moisture down to a minimum & temp around 90*F. They will grow then turn into 'aliens' then beetles. The 'aliens' do nothing just wiggle & the beetles breed & lay eggs. The beetles can fly but not very well & mostly just walk about. They will live, breed & die in the substrate. you can seperate the beetles into a seperate container with a similar set up if you like or you can just leave them to get on with it. The mealworms take forever to grow to 'feedable' size.
Crickets can have a porridge oat substarte or none at all. same dry food as the mealies & the carrot & apple for moisture. Again keep the moisture levels low. provide a container/jar a few inches deep of sand for the females to lay eggs in. The crickets tend to smell a bit but I dont really notice it much, plus they cherp at night alot.
Plastic boxes with small ventilation holes drilled/burnt into the sides work well. If drilling keep the drill on a low/slow setting to avoid splitting the plastic or use a soldering iron to burn holes. This is easier, but smels of the the burning plastic so better to do outside. Be very careful with the soldering iron as it will melt through your flesh. These are pretty cheap from markets, cheap shops for about £3 & quicker than drilling. It's up to you though.
Make sure there are plenty of holes some in the sides at the top & in the lid. The mealies cannot climb & I haven't had a cricket escape either but maybe keep the holes smaller than the width of the mealies or small crickets.
Egg cartons are best for allowing the live food to hide/live in too & they will most likey breed amongst it too. Just have some horizontal & some vertical. Replace these every month or so.
You can either use a heatmat, lamp or keep the live food in a warm room up high on a shelf or something.
With the crickets you can provide a small dish with a little water & screwed up kitchen roll to stop the crickets drowning. They will be able to drink if the want to.
If you just wantot keep them alive then store the crickets/mealies in the fridge door as it's usually slight less cool than the shelves. just let the live food wake up a bit & add supplements like nutrobal before feeding. The only thing with cooling them is they last longer but cannot eat like they would if warm so would they be less gut loaded ?
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Edited by - n/a on 01/08/2008 22:20:11 |
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