| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 11/11/2009 : 16:44:02
So I am planning to breed Casper and Mushu in the spring, but I am confused as to when to start the cooling period.
Also, I have read somewhere that it is fine to just leave your snake in their viv and turn off the heat mat for the required amount of time (and dw, i wont be feeding) but my snakes live in my bedroom and I have the heating on all winter so I dont freeze to death.
1. Will this then be slightly too warm for the snakes?
2. Do they need to be moved to other housing for this period, eg: large fauns? or can they stay in thier vivs? (conflicting info on this one!)
Cheers all x |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| gingerpony |
Posted - 24/11/2009 : 19:46:43
last year was the first year i deliberately cooled my adult corns.......and they DIDN'T breed 
i'm not sure whether to bother this year, though my bank balance would probably appreciate me not buying quite so many mice for a month or so............ |
| eeji |
Posted - 24/11/2009 : 12:22:38
is there a reason you're brumating? |
| n/a |
Posted - 24/11/2009 : 05:22:15
usually 28-30C but atm about 18-20 gona turn thermastat off this week tho |
| lee2308 |
Posted - 23/11/2009 : 14:46:50
quote:
Originally posted by snake
my corns are in brumation now, but the male sumtimes comes out and sticks his tongue out which he never used to do and keeps it out dead straight, dont suppose any 1 knows y? and i kept my 2 corns in same viv for ages and they did not breed like rabbits lol.
What temps are you keeping them at? |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/11/2009 : 04:15:44
my corns are in brumation now, but the male sumtimes comes out and sticks his tongue out which he never used to do and keeps it out dead straight, dont suppose any 1 knows y? and i kept my 2 corns in same viv for ages and they did not breed like rabbits lol. |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 15/11/2009 : 20:46:53
quote:
Originally posted by eeji
if its any help, mine won't be getting cooled either :)
Thanks eeji, thats great. |
| eeji |
Posted - 14/11/2009 : 20:23:53
if its any help, mine won't be getting cooled either :) |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 14/11/2009 : 19:31:56
quote:
Originally posted by eeji
if you're thinking of brumating, then you need to start the process now. Ideally towards the back end of october is what i've read recomended
Thanks eeji, but judging by what you say I don't think I will bother... who am I to ignore the master?  |
| eeji |
Posted - 13/11/2009 : 22:26:42
if you're thinking of brumating, then you need to start the process now. Ideally towards the back end of october is what i've read recomended |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 13/11/2009 : 19:01:07
quote:
Originally posted by KITTYCAT
Hi SB, as eeji said you dont really need to burmate but if you want to and your snakes are in good health they should really have been fed more or larger pray for a few months b4 burmation as they will loose a few grams. Make sure the snake has completely emptied their digestive tract, precool them at 65-75F for 5-7days then reduce temp to 55-60f for the same amount of time then 55-60f for a month then 50f for a month or two  completing burmation then put it in reverse 65-70 for 5-7days then their regular temp this prevents shock after 3days offer a meal then go on to your regular feeding wait till the female has eaten a few meals and shed b4 you try putting male n female together.
Cheers Kitty, but I was just needing to know when to start- I have done all the research |
| KITTYCAT |
Posted - 13/11/2009 : 18:25:06
Hi SB, as eeji said you dont really need to burmate but if you want to and your snakes are in good health they should really have been fed more or larger pray for a few months b4 burmation as they will loose a few grams. Make sure the snake has completely emptied their digestive tract, precool them at 65-75F for 5-7days then reduce temp to 55-60f for the same amount of time then 55-60f for a month then 50f for a month or two completing burmation then put it in reverse 65-70 for 5-7days then their regular temp this prevents shock after 3days offer a meal then go on to your regular feeding wait till the female has eaten a few meals and shed b4 you try putting male n female together. |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 11/11/2009 : 22:48:13
quote:
Originally posted by eeji
not quite god-like-status just yet, last year was my first year of breeding 
Most big breeders I know don't brumate corns mainly because it can take a lot out of the snakes, which for the females especially isn't a good thing.
Theres also a few horror stories of snakes dying in brumation because they either aren't in top condition beforehand or the brumation temperature hasn't been low enough so the snake is still burning too many calories.
thanks so much eeji that is great info! I must admit that I was a bit concerned about brumating them, kept having visions of them carking it halfway through! |
| eeji |
Posted - 11/11/2009 : 21:27:19
not quite god-like-status just yet, last year was my first year of breeding
Most big breeders I know don't brumate corns mainly because it can take a lot out of the snakes, which for the females especially isn't a good thing.
Theres also a few horror stories of snakes dying in brumation because they either aren't in top condition beforehand or the brumation temperature hasn't been low enough so the snake is still burning too many calories.
|
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 11/11/2009 : 20:45:42
really? ok. but I thought that cooling could raise the fertility of the eggs? dont mean to sound like I am questioning you eeji (you are a breeding GOD) but I do wanna make sure I am learning all the right things. |
| eeji |
Posted - 11/11/2009 : 19:17:13
theres no real need to cool corns, they'll breed like rabbits come spring whether you do or don't :) |
