| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| n/a |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 13:51:56
Hi all,
Apologies if this has been covered in depth elsewhere on the forum, but I couldn't find the answer I'm looking for, I'm afraid.
Anyhow, I'm a total novice to this game - I bought my first corn snake about a fortnight ago - she's a nine month old aztec lavender; about 18" in length... since I got her she's been eaten three times (one fuzzy on each occasion; no problems there), and she's passing all her waste as normal. Tank conditions are, I think, normal enough, though perhaps a bit on the cooler side (thermostat on heat mat is set to 31c, thermometer on cool side reads 24c).
I handled her for 10-15 minutes on two occasions after giving her a week to settle in, and they both went fine (a little restless to start with, but settled down after a few minutes). The last two times I've tried to pick her up, however, she's spasmed, and I've ended up leaving her alone; I thought it was really strange behaviour after the initial handlings went well, and now I'm too nervous to have another go at picking her up! I haven't seen any blue-eye, so I don't think she's in shed, nor have I been trying to pick her up after she's been feeding, so I'm confused as to what would lead to this behaviour, unless it's because I'm trying to pick her up too early in the evening; should I only try to handle her when she's already active, perhaps?
Anyone got any advice/suggestions? I read elsewhere on this forum that putting her in a pillowcase to handle her might work - has anyone tried this to good effect? I'm reassuring myself that her hostility is just because of her age, but given that I'm a novice, I still have my doubts...
Help!
|
| 20 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Kellog |
Posted - 22/05/2010 : 03:47:48
That is fantastic news Mathew  ....thank you so much for letting us know  ! It really is a case of biting the bullet and getting in there....and now you have done that you just need to be patient with her and continue as you have. But it is so positive that she just slithered over your hand, with none of the spasming she was doing.
Cant wait to see the pics you have taken of her....so upload them soon  !
xxx
|
| mozacchio |
Posted - 21/05/2010 : 13:23:16
I'm very happy for you!
It wasn't that hard after all, was it?
 |
| n/a |
Posted - 21/05/2010 : 13:18:53
Hi everyone! Just thought I'd add a quick postscript to this thread to say that I evenually managed to handle Meryl successfully today! I was really nervous at first, because when my hand was in the tank she kept coming over to my fingers, flicking her tongue, and I was expecting her to strike... instead, she just slithered over my hand, and I was able to get hold of her and handle her over my RUB for fifteen minutes! She was perfectly well behaved, and even obliged by sitting still long enough for me to get my first non-shot-though-the-viv-wall photos of her!
I really think rummaging through the substrate for a few minutes beforehand helped her get accustomed to me, rather than just reaching straight in for her like I have done previously, so thanks everyone for the advice! Oh yeah, and now that I've got some reasonable photos, I'll get around to uploading them sometime over the weekend, too.
|
| kdlang |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 21:20:25
either that or wait til she sheds and measure the skin then take 10% off to allow for stretching. |
| Sta~ple |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 20:02:07
quote:
Originally posted by Mathew
time to get the tape measure out, I think! lol
You don;t need a tape measure, you need some snake measuring software ;)
http://www.serpwidgets.com/Apps/apps.html |
| n/a |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 17:11:26
Hmm... guess my maths must be out, then! I must be honest with you, I haven't actually measured the dimensions of the tank - she's certainly longer than the length of the tank, but I don't think she could possibly be over 2' long (haven't been able to measure her properly yet)... time to get the tape measure out, I think! lol |
| kdlang |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 14:40:21
Mathew by my maths she should be fine in the faun for a little while longer yet. You say she is about 18" and the faun is 18" x 12" so by my reconning she could grow another 12" before she needs to move up a size. |
| n/a |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 12:23:14
Thanks, Kellog, and thanks crazysnakeman, too! Hmm... if length of snake > length+depth of viv, then it's time to move up a size, eh? Guess that means she's due to move house sooner rather than later, then - perhaps the pet shop should've given me a bigger faun to start with. Still, think I'll give her another month or two to settle in, though, before moving her - don't want to stress her out again, so soon after getting her settled in! |
| Kellog |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 05:21:41
quote:
Originally posted by Mathew
Thanks for the EBay link, Sta~ple; I'll definitely be getting one of those now! :) She's in an Exoterralarge flat faunarium (18"x12"), which is just about big enough for her, I think, though I can't imagine she'll be comfortable in there for much longer - I'm considering moving her into a permanent viv once she hits about 2 foot.
Ah, Kellog, I see! So that'll be why my hide has a tiny hole in the back - so I can thread the thermostat through! *a dim bulb brightens*
Thanks for the link to handling advice too; like you say, she's bound to be at least as nervous as me, but I feel a lot more confident about handling her now (lol - I'm 26, and sound like a ten year-old!). That tip about checking the substrate so she a) detects her scent on me, and b) gets accusomed to my hand being in there (so it doesn't appear as a stealth assault on my part) is great, and I'll definitely use that in future, too.
Thanks, everyone!
Glad we can be of help Mathew....it is what we are here for! As for moving her up to a permanent viv we usually suggest that once the snake's length = the length + depth of their viv/faun....then it is time to move them into something bigger.
Keep persisting with the handling - remember quality not quantity, and whatever happens force yourself to behave calmly and gently....no matter what you are feeling inside!
quote:
Originally posted by crazysnakeman
Heya, I would agree with reducing the temp slightly, and a digital thermometer is good, but if you have a thermostat as you said, it should stay consistent with what you set it to......
I am afraid that I am not sure whether you are right with what you say about the stat staying consistent Josh....they have been known to malfunction and also to not necessarily be controlling the heatmat enough to be sure that it puts out the heat that you have it set the stat at - which is why the digital thermometer is such a vital piece of equipment, so that you can monitor what the heat in the viv is and whether the stat is working correctly. I think it is definitely a necessity for peace of mind and for the safety of your snake.
xxx
|
| crazysnakeman |
Posted - 19/05/2010 : 00:02:53
Heya, I would agree with reducing the temp slightly, and a digital thermometer is good, but if you have a thermostat as you said, it should stay consistent with what you set it to.
The pillow case method I saw mentioned I have used myself for aggressive pythons,but it really is more for aggressive snakes, rather then docile but jumpy ones - it allows you to handle them without being bitten, and allows the snake to stay slightly calmer with restricted visual stimulus, and after a while they begin to enjoy the warmth of your body, relate it to the smell of your body, and classical conditioning allows them to relate your body to these positive outcomes, decreasing aggression.
Jumpy snakes are best dealt with firmly and confidently, if you want to pick it up, tell your self you will pick it up, rather then being hesitant. Be gentle, but deliberate. This ticklish behaviour calms down as time passes, but even so, if you catch an adult off guard they will still do it! It really is a matter of telling yourself you can do it, and doing it efficiently. Be persistent in a handling regime, remember that repeated and failed capture attempts can stress any animal, but also remember that they need to be handled for future husbandry purposes!
It may seem mean right now, but they get used to it pretty soon, and provided you start now, and catch them efficiently, you wont have any problems..
Hope this helps! |
| n/a |
Posted - 18/05/2010 : 12:34:00
Thanks for the EBay link, Sta~ple; I'll definitely be getting one of those now! :) She's in an Exoterralarge flat faunarium (18"x12"), which is just about big enough for her, I think, though I can't imagine she'll be comfortable in there for much longer - I'm considering moving her into a permanent viv once she hits about 2 foot.
Ah, Kellog, I see! So that'll be why my hide has a tiny hole in the back - so I can thread the thermostat through! *a dim bulb brightens*
Thanks for the link to handling advice too; like you say, she's bound to be at least as nervous as me, but I feel a lot more confident about handling her now (lol - I'm 26, and sound like a ten year-old!). That tip about checking the substrate so she a) detects her scent on me, and b) gets accusomed to my hand being in there (so it doesn't appear as a stealth assault on my part) is great, and I'll definitely use that in future, too.
Thanks, everyone! |
| Kellog |
Posted - 18/05/2010 : 03:50:22
Hi Matthew, I am so glad you are asking these questions as it is very important that you get the answers you need. Most of it has been covered already.
As Sexybear has mentioned, having the stat set at 31oC is too high - my stats are set at about 28oC. It is dependant on what sort of set-up your snake has - a wooden viv or plastic/glass faun. As she is so young I would assume a faun (sorry if that assumption is wrong  ). This means that you will have the heatmat outside the faun - which is what you indicate.
You need to get a digital thermometer as soon as possible, until then use the thermometer from the cool end to monitor the warm end temps. You dont need to worry about the cool end temps as they shouldnt drop below room temp, which will be fine for your snake. The digital thermometer from ebay that Sta~ple has mentioned is used by a number of members, isnt expensive and arrives fairly quickly. The probes for the stat and the thermometer should be on the base of the faun (above the area where the heatmat is), lying horizontally. You can then cover them with a small sprinkling of substrate, deepening it to allow your snake to burrow towards the cool end. You will need to weigh the probes down with a heavy hide or stones so that your snake doesnt more them around. As LittleMick says, when you get your digital thermometer go by what that says rather than by what the stat says.
As far as handling goes SexyBear is again right, her reaction is totally normal and it just takes time and patience. You have to bite the bullet and handle her, expecting her to react the way she has done before....but you need to ignore it and continue to be calm and gentle with her. This link may help in giving you some advice in starting to handle her - http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8735.
I have never heard of the pillow case method but am unsure how it will help....as you will have to handle her yourself eventually so you may as well do it now.
Please be reassured that what she is showing is not hostility....it is purely fear and that is why you need to continue to handle her, so that she can learn that you are not a threat. You may be nervous when you go to handle her but you must try not to let her know that - it is a case of 'fake it until you feel it' with confidence ....and after a few times of handling her and you both relaxing you will not have to fake it any more .
Hope this helps.
xxx
|
| mozacchio |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 23:05:07
quote:
Originally posted by Mathew
[font=Tahoma]Thanks for the advice, everyone - no-one I know keeps snakes, and this forum's already been really helpful for putting my anxious to rest!
Same here.. The only guy that keeps snakes in Crete (Greece) where i live, is my ex and we don't talk much. So, this forum has saved me many times..!  |
| Sta~ple |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 22:58:02
You can get digital thermometer off e-bay that are cheaper than analogue ones. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230467620317#ht_2935wt_946
My adult girl sometimes spasms if I pick her up unexpectedly but she soon calms down once out.
What tank is she in? Is she in a wooden one, glass or a plastic one? If it's a wooden one then the probe should be touching the mat which should be inside. For any other kinds of one I put them on the floor of the tank and that way I know if they touch this area that should be the hottest they won't be burned. There shouldn't be a whole lot of difference between measuring the floor of the tank/heatmat directly if in a wooden tank or measuring at substrate level as the substrate should heat up and keep the heat well and there shouldn't be a whole lot of substrate on the hot side.
I know what you mean about the fear of a heat mat burning stuff! I still am a bit undecided if it is completely safe heating my RUB's but I have too keep reminding myself that there's no way it could happen. |
| LittleMick |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 22:45:35
Well I can't comment about heat stressing a snake as it hasn't happened yet in my short experience, but if you are interested in stat dials, and inaccurate temp readings then view this topic that I got help with.
http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7617&SearchTerms=stat
Also what stat have you got? I have 3 different models and find all their dials are inaccurate, when you get your digi therm go by the temp reading on that rather than what the stat dial says. |
| Takagi |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 21:49:31
Ello
Yup It seems were going through the same thing heh, but yea these guys and gals are brill nothing but good advise :)
(though im still at the "wimpy" phase heh) |
| n/a |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 17:03:39
I'm afraid not; all I could afford at the time was a single analogue thermometer, which I've positioned in the middle of the tank, and reads 24c (+/- 1c). Once I've been paid, I intend to get two digital thermometers, one for each end of the tank, which should ensure an even heat distribution.
I didn't realise that excessive heat could cause tetchiness or overactivity in snakes. To be honest, I was more concerned about the tank getting too cold: thanks for the tip!
Oh, while we're on the topic of thermostats, am I right in thinking that the stat's sensor should be resting on top of the hot end's substrate? I must admit, I was petrified the first day or two that the heat mat would either melt the tank or burn my bookshelf down - bet I'm not alone in this, however!
Thanks for the advice, everyone - no-one I know keeps snakes, and this forum's already been really helpful for putting my anxious to rest!
"A++++: Would post again" |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 14:33:40
31c is too hot imo. Is the hot side monitored by a thermometer (ideally digital?) If too hot, snakes become over active, stressed and tetchy, and this can definitely cause handling issues.
Turn the stat down to 29c, borrow the therm from the cool end, and monitor the temps until they are actually at 29c. You may need to fiddle about with the stat dial before temps are sorted.
Next- this is what young snakes do. Patience and perseverance is key, with regular calm handling most corns will settle down. |
| n/a |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 14:29:03
Ah, maybe that's the problem, then - merci bien. :) |
| mozacchio |
Posted - 17/05/2010 : 14:02:07
I've had that problem, too! The spasms are due to the fact that they get tickled when you touch them at the upper body. Only the belly is "safe"! So you'd better try to pick her up by putting your hand under her (very slowly) and then gently pick her up..! She might try to get away but if when you reach her you hold her and pick her up with confidence, there should be no problem! It's not easy in the beginning (i was a bit nervous too) but you'll get used to each other!
Hope i helped,
Electra |
|
|
