| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| n/a |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 20:43:29
hi im all new to corn snakes i have a 6 year old 4ft carolina female corn nice and heathly but the rep shop didnt have alot of info on her infact hardly any im just woundering what is the best way to feed her and what should i been feeding her any help would be great
cheers |
| 6 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Kellog |
Posted - 26/01/2010 : 04:51:19
SB - I am so glad you are here keeping an eye on the forum while I am having to be absent a lot of the time!!  
Jay - the advice SexyBear has given you is perfect....
I am not sure how long you have had your corn for but the one-week rule is vital. No handling or feeding for the first week to allow her to get over the stress of the move and for her to get used to the new smells and her new surroundings. This means just putting your hand in to change the water daily and straighten the substrate, which means she can get used to your smell and not be threatened by you. You are rarely advised this in a lot of pet shops  but it is an important way of getting your snake to de-stress and feel safe with you. It is a hard week, very frustrating, but worth it for the snake's sake.
The care-sheet SexyBear pointed to you is excellent, and you also should look at this topic on 'Your 1st Snake' http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4133.
Again, the feeding chart should help. The guide for feeding is 1.5 times the width of the snake, thats a maximum size.
You can work out if your snake needs to move up in size when there is no longer a bump once they have eated their 'dinner'.
Remember that snakes are opportunistic feeders...in the wild they will never know when or where they are getting their next meal and they are the same in captivity, so given the chance they will overfeed and it is up to us to make sure this doesnt happen, no matter how hungry they may look!
If you can get your corn to feed out of the viv it is probably best, because of the reasons SB has said...and I would definitely use tweezers to dangle the mouse when you offer her food.
As I said...SB has really covered everything and her last post is the most important - any other questions please ask! No question is regarded as a silly question .....it is much better asked and answered, you will probably find others who want the info too! First place to look is in the top right hand corner of the screen where there is a search button...type in what you are worried about and see if you can find an answer, if not then dont hesitate to ask!
xxx
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| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 21:25:25
You're welcome, hope it all goes well. Any other queries dont hesitate to ask. |
| n/a |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 21:22:30
ok thanks so much cheers |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 21:04:27
My amel wont feed out the viv, so hers gets left in the viv on a dish. Make sure if you decide to feed in the viv that you put something down for the prey to be put on to stop accidental ingestion of the substrate, which can cause problems. A dish, piece of kitchen towel, newspaper etc work fine.
Ideally you want to get her feeding out the viv. Feeding in the viv can occasionally result in a snake that thinks hands mean food- permanently!
Get a box or RUB and feed the snake in their. Never put substrate into the feeding tub, for the reasons above. You can line the box with newspaper or kitchen roll of you wish. When feeding, always use tweezers for safety's sake!! Bitten fingers cause stress to both you and the snake. Allow a good 10-15 minutes for the food to be worked down after swallowing, when you can then place your snake gently back into the viv, making sure not to touch their food lump. |
| n/a |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 20:56:24
ok thanks so is it best to feed her via tweezers or leave her feed in her viv??
cheers |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 25/01/2010 : 20:50:29
Firstly , have a read of this-
http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/corn_snake_care_sheet.htm
This care sheet is perfect for beginners and answers nearly all basic questions.
This a snake feed chart, intended to be a rough guide as to what you should be feeding and when-
-Single pinks (2-3g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 6-7 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (20-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)
Alot of us on here keeping feeding records, and some even keep records of when their snakes defecate. This helps you to keep an eye on their feeding routine, and combined with weighing your snake every month is an invaluable piece of kit for any keeper.
So this is a start.
Your snake will need a week to settle into their new surroundings and get used to you. No handling or feeding allowed during this time, just change the water every day.
Nearly everyone on here feeds their snake thawed prey. Various methods of defrosting include warm water and leaving the mouse out to defrost at room temp. You can then blast it with a hair dryer to warm it up. NEVER microwave your mice or use boiling water to defrost, the results are pretty icky.
Mice are the staple diet of corns, they shouldnt require anything else to be healthy. Avoid rats as they are very fatty.
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