T O P I C R E V I E W |
ajacklin |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 16:00:13 Hi, I assume I'm just being dumb...I wanted to attach a pic of my viv to explain better but clicking on insert image doesn't seem to work! I got my snake with complete viv about four months ago, the corn is two years old in a 3ft viv, there was a heat mat under the substrate at one end with a heat lamp above it. The mat was on permanently and the lamp was on from 7am until 7pm going off for one hour in the morning and another hour in the evening. I wondered if this was too much so I put the heat lamp on a thermostat to come on if less than 30c. The lamp hasn't come on since using the thermostat, with the sensor placed under the hide at the heated end of the viv. If I place a digital thermometer on top of the substrate, under the hide at the heated end it reads 30c at the opposite end it reads 21c. As far as I can tell this seems to be ideal but I wanted to check as it seems odd that he used to have the lamp on so much. He hasn't eaten for the past few weeks which I'm not concerned about yet but that's assuming the viv is correct. Sorry if I have gone on a bit but as I said I just want to put my mind at rest!! |
13 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
ajacklin |
Posted - 20/11/2009 : 12:51:45 I only started weighing him last week as the first few weeks he was off food I wasn't too concerned, I was going to weigh again last night if he didn't eat to see if he had lost any weight but he ate straight away so I couldn't and thankfully didn't need to weigh him! I have started keeping a diary now though so I'll routinely weigh him, he doesn't look like he has lost weight. I too was so pleased he ate, I had told myself over and over that he wouldn't so when he took it immediately I had the hugest grin Thanks for the reply, I'll leave it a week until I feed him again then. |
Kellog |
Posted - 20/11/2009 : 04:45:30 I had my snake go for a 13 week fast from the moment we got him (he is 4yrs old). I was advised on here to stick to normal feeding schedule whether he ate or not. So I would suggest you stay on his normal feeding schedule. Have you been weighing him? Has he lost much weight?
So glad he ate...I remember the relief (and shock) I felt when Kellog finally took a mouse - most excitement I had had in years!!
xxx |
ajacklin |
Posted - 19/11/2009 : 21:40:50 Right guys & gals, Jaffa has finally eaten tonight, it would have been six weeks tomorrow since his last one! I'm sure it was the wrong temperature set up that caused him to go off his food, anyway that has been sorted now but.....should I just go back to the old routine of one mouse a week or as he has been off food for a while should I try to give him another as soon as he has a poo? Any advice please?? |
n/a |
Posted - 01/11/2009 : 00:03:40 To make it easier from my previous post, here is the link for that Microclimate on/off mini stat 100 (100watts max).
http://www.888reptiles.co.uk/productsubcategories.php?SubCategoryID=205 |
n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 23:50:48 Just wondering as you are new to the forum if you have read the feeding guide to a non- feeding snake.
As you said, its not a big concern at the moment, but the following will help give some useful tips to get him feeding again:
http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3720 |
n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 22:29:44 mine spends a lot of tim in cold end. Maybe as he hasn't eaten he doesn't need to use the heat to digest. Have to tried to put him into the hot spot hide after a hold? Or swap the hides over as although the log is well covered over the end, it is more open than the viking helmet. And they're quite inquisitive so a change around is good from time to time. Snakes also like a hide to be nice and tight so they make contact in it all around. Though it would make us chlostrophobic (sp), they feel more secure. Also snakes are more active at night so he may use the other, you just don't see it. |
ajacklin |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 22:10:50 Just another quickie....he spends nearly all of his time probably over 80% of his week under the viking helmet in the cool end, does this seem normal or do you think maybe he doesn't like the hide in the hot end? |
n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 21:52:39 im not too familiar with that make to be honest. It may be fine but if you go to 888reptiles.co.uk and under their heating section look at thermostats there. A microclimate 100 mat stat is perfect. Its only 17 quid so you'd save few quid too. They're really popular and last a while i hear. They're the ones i use. They're on ebay too. My only concern with the one you looked up is i would say its intended for light or ceramic heating hence the 1000w capacity. Most mats top off at 40w and the one you're likely to have in a 3 ft viv is around 22w so im not sure if the one u looked at would work effectively down that low. Could be wrong but the stat i mentioned is fine. |
ajacklin |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 21:23:48 It's a habistat, on/off thermostat but the marker has fell off the dial so I have to use a separate thermostat to set it correctly. Because of that I was looking at these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lucky-Reptile-Thermo-Control-II-new-boxed_W0QQitemZ170389977218QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Pet_Supplies_Reptiles_Spiders_Insects?hash=item27ac08b882#ht_735wt_1161 Not seen them before but they were using them at an animal care college I was working at this week. |
eeji |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 19:42:45 if its a dimming thermostat you have for the light, then it can't be used for the mat.
if its a pulse stat or an on/off stat (matstat) then it will be ok :) |
n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 18:55:26 nice cool end hide! The temps are ideal. you can use the thermostat from light but do u know which it is? It should work for mat but as the wattage to run light are much higher some don't work. Best to give a go. I would say heat mat is fine for that viv. The reason he measured ambient temp before was cuz he was measuring the heat the light emmitted. I think if u use stat for mat and works you'll be doing pretty much everything right! |
ajacklin |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 17:01:10
Might not be any help now but I've done this pic, yes that's correct the temperature hasn't dropped low enough for the lamp to come on, it's a red light with a guard over it. The temperature at the heated side doesn't seem to fluctuate or go over 30c but if I can do without the light I'll transfer the stat to the mat instead, better to be safe than sorry! The guy I got "Jaffa" from had thermometers at each end of the viv but seemed to be looking more at the air temps rather than under the hide where he spends all of his time. |
n/a |
Posted - 31/10/2009 : 16:39:20 Hi & welcome to this forum!
I'm Ben.
Your temperatures seem fine a few questions though
1. You say the lamp has not come on. I take it your using the mat for heat as it hasn't turned the lamp on as the temps haven't dropped? 2. If above correct, are you using a thermostat for mat? They're only an on off stat and £17-£25. It can save your snake from serious injury or death if the mat is on constantly. 3. Is that bulb guarded for when it does come on? bulb guards will also save your snake from serious burns or death.
Snakes dont need additional light for conditioning so don't worry bout light not coming on. Be aware though heat mats will only heat what is in contact with them (absolutely fine on their own & I only use a heat mat with stat for my corn & royal python). Whereas lights raise the ambient air temperature. Mats are fine for corns though.
Here is a link to show how to upload photos. Photos are recommended to help us steer you in the right direction.
http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14
Plese state what he eats and weighs and when he last shed. This time of year it seems a large number of snakes are going off their prey but if you could answer my q's I may be able to give you a more specific answer.
Sorry for "note form" reply but I need to get ready to go out but wanted to give some help first
Once again welcome, and I'm sure you'll find us all very helpful (hopefully!) |