| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| hayden764 |
Posted - 09/06/2013 : 10:16:26
I have a male corn snake who is 1 and a half years old. He was recently taken away from a female and now never comes out. Two months after splitting them up he became consapated and ill. When we finally got over that problem he wouldn't eat that much and now he has started to regurgitate his food infact today I found a mouse in there. Please tell me if there anything I can do to help him it would be a huge help. Also he is always hiding and is very thin
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| 5 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Kellog |
Posted - 10/06/2013 : 19:24:32
I'm in total agreement with what Mama and Smartbunny have said Hayden. To be in an environment that isn't right is very stressful for a snake and could easily cause regurges. You say he's in a plastic vivarium. It would be good for you to look at Setting up a hatchling corn snake - My 101 (the thread SmartBunny linked you to) and Setting up an adult corn snake - My 101 . These will show you what he needs and how to set it up. I'm assuming a plastic vivarium is a cross between the 2, the hatchling's faunarium and the adult wooden viv.
He will have been stressed originally after being separated from the female. This isn't because he 'missed' her, but purely because he was used to her being there and had to adjust to the change. If his set-up wasn't right on top of that then it isn't surprising that he's had these issues.
As far the the regurging is concerned, I've been where you are with it and I know with mine temperature was part of the issue....she was spending all her time in the cool hide and therefore not getting the warmth she needed to digest her food properly. Smartbunny is right about leaving him for 10 days after he has regurged and offering him a smaller size food item than you would normally. More information about it can be found here - Regurgitation or regurge It is also vital that you don't offer him food more often than he's used to because that will stress him more.
How do you feed him, in his vivarium or in a separate RUB? What is he eating and how often?
You say he is very thin. Do you know how much he weighs? It's a good idea to keep records of weight, what you feed your snake and when, shedding dates, etc. You can weigh him by putting a RUB or shoebox on some digital scales, putting them to zero and then adding him.
I hope that is some help. Out of curiosity, do you have the female as well and, if you do, is her set-up the same as his?
Xxx
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| smart bunny |
Posted - 09/06/2013 : 17:47:34
First things first, if the snake has definitely regurged (rather than ignored a feed you left in for him) then DON'T attempt another feed for at least 10 days to allow the stomach acids to settle (I'd leave 14 days if he has regurged more than once) - if you try too soon he will either refuse, or take the food item but not be able to digest it so it will cause another regurge. Also, when you do attempt again, make sure you offer food one size smaller then he normally takes, again so it is easier on his stomach.
If however he hasn't regurged, just ignored a feed, then still don't attempt another feed for a whole week as offering too often will just stress him out and make him less likely to feed at all.
As Mamma said above, you really need to check your setup is correct - one hide is not enough, he needs a hide at each end, and the mat needs to be thermostatted and the temps measured with a digital thermometer. I assume from what you have said that he is in a faunarium? If so see here for more info: http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9878 |
| Mamma |
Posted - 09/06/2013 : 11:54:33
is the heat mat on a thermostat? What temp is the mat sitting at? And are you measuring using a digital themometer? Do you have a hot and a cool end hide for him? |
| hayden764 |
Posted - 09/06/2013 : 10:37:45
It's a plastic vivarium with a cave and a stone water bowl it haves no lights but does have a heat mat |
| Mamma |
Posted - 09/06/2013 : 10:31:20
what is your current set up like for the snake? |
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