| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| poley |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 14:23:45
Hey all, just new to the site (although I have been reading for months, the info here is invaluable!)
I'm currently in the process of setting up my vivarium, I have a wooden one slightly over 2ft, with a red heatlamp on a thermostat. Over the past day, I've been testing temperatures in order to make sure its right for its slinky inhabitant once he comes along.
My issue is this: I chose to use a heat lamp over a mat for a couple of reasons, firstly because my room gets pretty (read, VERY) cold during the winter months and the heat mat I have is quite small, and secondly, although they are fully waterproof etc, I just feel a little uncomfortable putting an electrical heater on the floor with the snake.
So, heat lamp wired up to thermostat, currently cool end is around 22C and warm end is 29-30C (according to my rather unreliable, as I've found, thermometer, MUST UPGRADE!), but the temp is constantly peaking the thermostat threshold and as a result the bulb turns on and off near enough every minute. I'll be raising him on a strict diet of rush and jimi hendrix, so having his viv like a club could be counter-productive.
In seriousness, I'd imagine the snake would be agitated by this constant change in light, even if it is red. What would you learned folks suggest? The bulb is currently 60watts, which I think may be far too high, I can grab a 40watt bulb and try that? |
| 12 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Okeetee Mick |
Posted - 18/11/2011 : 15:50:28
Hi Poley, you certainly seem to know what you want It really is horses for courses so to speak, I have my two 4ft vivs set up and ready to go using red heat lamps for daytime heating (used with a dimming thermostat and a timer and bulb guard) and a heat mat (used with a pulse thermostat) for nights. The mat is left on 24/7 but never comes on during the day as it is set 8 degrees lower than the day temperature. I like to think this replicates nature as nights are usually cooler than days, it also has the advantage of being able to view the snakes at night without disturbing them. |
| poley |
Posted - 18/11/2011 : 11:22:55
The only reason I decided to try both is because the heat mat I have is quite small, definitely too small to cover a third of the vivarium. The obvious solution of course is to simply get a bigger mat, although I've had the setup running for a couple of days now and the temperatures are about perfect (22 at cool end, 28-29 at warm).
Stuart, thanks for your reply. I'm actually using the stat for the mat rather than the bulb, the bulb is on constantly so the temperature is pretty consistant.
I'll keep it going for another couple of days before I do anything, but the results are reasonably promising at the moment.
If not, big mat and no lamp!
I'll keep you all posted, thanks again for your advice. |
| scottishbluebird |
Posted - 17/11/2011 : 16:16:32
Yeah, i think it is best to use one or the other, but if you want a light, (not for heat) get led lights, a lot of people use them, know i will be when Kellogs moves up to a viv! they look fantastic |
| stuart619 |
Posted - 17/11/2011 : 13:49:25
I personally wouldn't bother with the lamp. I don't think that you will need a lamp and a mat. I'd just use a heat mat.
As previously stated. The holes in the bulb guard may be too big and allow a smaller snake to get to the bulb.
I have only ever used mats for corns, they are reliable and cheaper than heat lamps.
If you do decide to use a lamp though, I'd suggest using a dimming stat, it will keep the temperature a lot more stable than an ON/OFF stat.
Good luck with the new setup |
| Simmy_82 |
Posted - 17/11/2011 : 11:21:09
Surely it would only be necassarry to use one or the other? |
| poley |
Posted - 17/11/2011 : 10:44:05
Thanks all for the advice! I discovered, after having read Okeetee Mick's reply, that there is in fact a difference between a mat stat and a dimming stat. Durr...
I've decided to try the mat (every one of you can't be wrong, right!? =P) along with a 40watt red bulb, with the bulb on constantly and the mat on the thermo should the warm end need 'topping up' so to speak.
What do you think?
Next on the agenda is a fine mesh guard for the bulb, a few more nice features about the viv (its 2ft, so the more in there to make a young snake feel more secure the better...?) and some sealant for the holes for the cables.
And a little amel corn snake! =) |
| lotabob |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 20:17:52
I have both in my corn snake vivarium so can give you a bit of info about both.
BULB
You will need a dimming thermostat and if it is a bulb giving off any white light it will need switching off at night. Guards are all good and well but if you're getting a hatchling the holes will have to be tiny. I have had to get my hatchie out of the guard before and then went to just a mat until he was a bit bigger.
MAT
Its a cheaper option, the mat and mat-stat will probably come in cheaper than a dimming stat on its own. The stat probe MUST be fixed to the mat, if its not touching the mat its not doing its job. Mats aren't waterproof though so a bit of aquarium sealant is needed around the connections in my opinion just to avoid a sloppy poo becoming a shocking experience, its a small risk but its not a lot of effort to just guarantee it cant happen.
Whichever way you choose to heat your vivarium is fine though providing that its done properly and safely. In my opinion mats are an easier and cheaper and safer option for hatchlings but as adults you have the choice of several methods. (I'm currently setting up a bigger vivarium for my yearling and I'm using ceramic heat bulbs, I just like their performance over all other methods). |
| Vince_the_snake |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 19:55:53
I've always used a heat mat and it always worked perfect.I prefer not to use bulbs as I always like the snake to have night and day instead of constant daylight. |
| Okeetee Mick |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 17:42:45
Hi, a 60 watt bulb should be fine as long as you are using a dimming thermostat. |
| garrie |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 16:38:00
Hey Poley, welcome to the forum . I know you have mentioned your slight concern at putting a heat mat/electrical deviceon the floor of the viv - I really would say this isn't an issue (if you were to change your mind in the future)...most of us on here use them and rarely is there an issue unless they are very old/second hand. As Scottishbluebird has said, get yourself a cage for the bulb.
To begin with, I had a bulb...from encouragement from the guy in a pet shop - his advice was to use 40W in the warmer months and 60W when it is colder. After around 2 months my first bulb went pop - and I just stuck to the heat mat that I had. Obviously not wanting to cause any further concern, but I have read the odd comment on here about bulbs literally going "pop" with glass breaking. |
| poley |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 15:19:52
Thank you!
So I see from the stickied post! Worry not, bulb guard will be in long before snake is, at the moment I'm just trying to get the temps right. |
| scottishbluebird |
Posted - 16/11/2011 : 14:47:14
Hi and welcome, i cant help with bulb wattage, but do you have a light guard as this is REALLY important! |
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