| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 10:24:54
Hi All,
Been reading this forum for a while now and finally convinced myself last Saturday and went down to the local reptile shop and got my first corn snake :) I took a few pics on my mobile to show, not great quality. Will get some proper pics later.
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| 20 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| HannahB |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 22:56:10
yeah there are some you can get that are even hatchling proof..wouldnt be able to tell you who made them or where you could get them from which i apolagise for but i know there are some out there! |
| Kellog |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 22:48:25
Not sure about guards - but just a touch could burn! xxx |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 22:42:41
Yeah I meant to get some sticky backed draft excluder to block that up, u know the stuff you put around door frames. Just haven't had time yet to go get some. The paper binder is actually a good idea as well, cheers kellog :)
I think he could probably touch the bulb from the branch but I cant see him being able to coil around it. The bulb is more located near the front, its a bigger gap than it looks. Is it even possible to get a guard to stop such a small snake? Most of the ones I seen he could probably squeeze through. |
| Kellog |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 22:28:18
Good way to close gap between panels of glass is to put a paper binder on inside one. Gather my snake used to try to escape through it all the time when he was small, which meant him rubbing his nose up and down the edge of the glass. I am sure it is what has caused a small 'scar' on a scale on his nose. The paper binder will fill the gap and soften the edge of the glass. xxx |
| matty18714 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 21:56:37
Definatly change the bulb to a mat. The problem with bulbs in a small viv is that you wont get a temperature gradient from end to end. This isnt a problem using mats.
Is that the only thermometer you have in the viv? Its a good idea to get some digital thermometers, 1 at each end. They are alot more accurate than dials. They are pretty cheap from ebay. Search for "digital aquarium thermometer".
Are you sure he cant reach the bulb from the top of the bark? I would lie it flat on the ground to make sure.
As you have such a young snake in the viv, it could easily escape through the gap between the pannels of glass. Stuff it with folded paper or cardboard. |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 21:39:57
Ok here some viv pics, snakey/Toshiro (wife named him Toshiro now, but I still think snakey rolls of the tongue easier) wouldn't come out to pose, he spends alot of his time sleeping under the log with the moss, until it gets dark then he comes out to party.
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| matty18714 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 21:34:26
Sounds good, I would go for a heat mat and a Habistat mat stat. See if he will take back the two bulbs and give you store credit towards the heat mat and stat. Go for a mat that will cover between a third and half of the floor space.
The snake wont need any more light than what will be provided naturaly. |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 21:21:48
Ok matty I got the box for the bulb, its a Eveready Diffused Bayonet Cap Fitting B22, R80 Reflector Bulb, 40Watt and I hope that made sense to you cos the only part I understood was "bulb" :) But I totally agree with you the bulb is way too hot, Im going to ring them tomorrow and see if I can either get a stat for it or a heat matt.
I took a few pics of the viv as well, will post them shortly. |
| HannahB |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:45:24
you'd be amazed how well they can get to places you dont think they can reach!
tbh snakes get used to our lights being on and off during the day/night and the natural light/dark so they dont particularly need the light to simulate this (does that make sense?)
if you get a red bulb then it can stay on at a constant temp at one end as they cant see it but they still get the heat from it 
**gah matty you beat me! |
| matty18714 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:39:29
In the wild, snakes dont have 12 hours of blinding direct light, followed by an instant switch to darkness.
Without a stat you will cook the snake. The bulb will just get hotter and hotter. If its a white light, 12 hours on and 12 hours off will stress the snake. Its better for you to get a red bulb so that its not as bright, and they stuggle to see red.
Its also even worse to use a white bulb with a red eyed snake. |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:31:06
Hannah - Yeah its quite hard to find him at times, but we got into a routine of when I turn his light out at night 1 hour later he will be out and about exploring. Mostly during the day he just hides and sleeps.
Remmy - He is due his first feed soon, first sign of trouble feeding or digesting I'll be straight down to get a heat matt. The shop owner said the light on and off was to simulate natural day and night cycle for the snake just like it would have in the wild.
Matty - I think its just normal spotlights, will check the box tonight. He gave a 40watt and 60watt no dimming stat. He just said use the 40watt and if its too cold put in the 60watt. I don't have a guard yet, but at snakey's current size there is no way he can get anywhere near the bulb. I will sort something out before he gets big enough to reach that high. |
| eeji |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:13:30
congrats on your 'first of many' corns! :D
You'll find that most people use statted heatmats with no trouble for corns. I agree with the above post about having no heat for 12 hours too, they will need the option of a cool spot and a warm spot throughout the day and night to keep their optimum temperature. |
| matty18714 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:08:16
Nice corn. How are you heating it? Red bulb, gaurd and dimming stat? |
| Remmy |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 18:02:01
Nice snow. I would get a heat mat, turning the heat light of for 12 hours at a time will cause problems for snakey to digest food after a feed |
| HannahB |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 17:39:26
you need a heat mat.. corns need a warm area and a cold area..not a constant heat source for a while and then no heat source.. sorry but i wouldnt follow that advice.. id get a heat mat and a stat fast
very cute snake although he might feel a bit more comfortable if you pack it out with hides and fauna ect cause it is too big for a snake that young.. i got my corn a big viv and he never came out.. he explored when he first got put in it but i never saw him.. i got a small faun to put him in and now hes always zipping about |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 16:58:46
The viv is roughly 24"x20"x20" give or take a little, made of wood with glass front. I asked at the time if it was too big but he convinced me it would be fine. I tried a few different places before I bought the snake and this guy seemed the most knowledgeable. The others were more like pet supermarkets and didn't seem to have any specialised knowledge of snakes. The shop owner has pretty strong beliefs which disagreed with alot of online opinion, like he doesn't like heat matts unless as a last resort. The heat light is on for 12 hours off for 12 hours, day temp 82-86, night temp 68-72. It’s a lot different from what I was expecting, but hey he has been running a reptile shop for 20 years successfully so who am I to argue. |
| SexyBear77 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 16:25:14
aw cute! how big is that viv? |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 16:14:36
lovely lil snow, nightmare to get a good foto of tho |
| n/a |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 13:16:04
The guy in the shop said roughly 10 weeks old. |
| alex09 |
Posted - 23/09/2009 : 12:30:28
nice snake. how old is she/he? |
